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By Root 742 0

your cooking: aromatic tomato soaking liquid and richly flavorful tomato-infused olive oil. Use the oil and the soaking liquid, for example, in the Fire-Roasted Tomato Stew with Eggplant and Farro. The oil will also give a twist to homemade salad dressing, or add it to tomato-based pasta sauce to boost flavor, or simply drizzle it over fresh bread. For an appetizer, slice vine-ripened tomatoes, top with slices of feta or a mild goat cheese, garnish with fresh oregano or thyme, and drizzle with tomato oil. The soaking liquid can be frozen, or stored in the fridge for up to 5 days. I replace some of the broth in soups, stews, and sauces with it. Sometimes, when it’s not too salty, I just drink it. My mom does that, of course—where else would I get such an idea? MAKES 1 CUP

TOMATOES

1 cup dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes (about 1½ ounces)

1 cup boiling water

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

TO FINISH

2½ teaspoons herbes de Provence (for sources), or use Mediterranean Herb Mixture, below

3 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

Fine sea salt

½ cup or more extra-virgin olive oil, depending on the size of the jar or container used

1 Place the tomatoes in a small bowl and top with the boiling water. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and set aside to steep until the tomatoes are soft and plump, about 15 minutes. Try one—a bite will also tell you how salty your tomatoes are. Drain the tomatoes, reserving the soaking liquid for another use.

2 To finish, leave the tomatoes whole (if you like to serve them as an appetizer), or chop and return them to the bowl. Add the herbes de Provence, garlic, pepper, and red pepper, and stir to combine. Taste for salt and pepper, and adjust. Spoon the tomatoes into a half-pint Mason jar or other small glass container. Carefully pour in enough olive oil to cover the tomatoes completely. Using a clean spoon, gently push any protruding tomatoes into the oil. Chill, covered, for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day, to allow the flavors to come together. Bring to room temperature before serving. Use the tomatoes within 1 week. The olive oil will solidify, but will become liquid again at room temperature. Always use clean utensils when removing the tomatoes, and cover the remaining ones with more olive oil to create a seal.

MEDITERRANEAN HERB MIXTURE

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried marjoram

¼ teaspoon dried lavender buds

1 Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and use for the recipe above (instead of 2½ teaspoons herbes de Provence). Multiply the ingredients as needed, and store the herb mixture in a small jar in a cool dark place for up to 6 months.

Quinoa Cakes with Smoked Trout and Lime Mayonnaise

Moist chunks of smoked trout brightened with lime, serrano chile, and cilantro are a natural foil for the delicate flavor of quinoa. True, this recipe is inspired more by the lush flavors of the Americas than by those of the Mediterranean. Yet these whole grain cakes are so irresistible, I had to introduce them to you. Serve these quinoa cakes with lime mayonnaise over salad greens as a light main course. They are also terrific as small party bites. MAKES 8 CAKES, TO SERVE 4

QUINOA

1¼ cups water

¾ cup quinoa, well rinsed and drained

LIME MAYONNAISE

½ cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest

¼ teaspoon minced serrano chile (remove veins and seeds for less heat)

CAKES

½ pound smoked trout, skinned and torn into ½-inch pieces (about 1½ cups)

½ cup finely chopped green onions (about 3)

½ cup finely chopped cilantro leaves

6 tablespoons plain dry whole wheat or regular bread crumbs

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 to 2 teaspoons minced serrano chile (remove veins and seeds for less heat)

1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest

½ teaspoon ancho chile powder

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 To prepare the quinoa, bring the water and the quinoa