Ancient Grains for Modern Meals - Maria Speck [88]
Milling—albeit not by hand but at the push of a button—makes me pause for a moment. Selecting and holding the colorful kernels in my hand before adding them to the hopper, I appreciate their distinct quality and character and the work that goes into growing them. Stone-milling, in countless variations, has been at the center of meals across cultures since our earliest days. And while we rush through our sometimes insanely paced lives today, I find this thought quite comforting. If you are a passionate baker, especially if you love a fresh homemade loaf, this should be your most important appliance.
To this day, I don’t own a stand mixer, but I have a mill on each continent. When working in Europe, I still use the first mill I ever bought. It has a powerful engine, assembled in the former East Germany, and an old-fashioned drawer to collect the flour. The more powerful German mill I use in the United States is truly state-of-the-art. It has a beautiful octagonal beechwood casing and traditional millstones for grinding. I can just place a bowl under its spout and start milling with the touch of a finger. All of this makes my heart race and my pulse quicken. I ponder what kind of sweet bread to whip up next.
Farmers’ Market Pasta with Heirloom Tomatoes, Rosemary, and Basil
I admit, I cook even when the thermometer hits 90 degrees on a sweltering day in Boston. But I do appreciate the ease of seasonal meals invented by ingenious cooks in hot climates long ago. Raw pasta sauce is one of them. This is a treat with fresh tomatoes from your own garden, or with juicy-ripe heirlooms from a farmers’ market. I smell every tomato I buy (Greeks do that!), and only if I get a whiff of their vibrantly sweet, grassy aroma will I add them to my shopping basket. Don’t omit the anchovies here, even if the thought of adding them makes you a bit queasy. If you mince the tiny fish they will blend into the sauce, adding a rich undertone that works especially well with heartier whole grain pasta. Start, if you must, by using just half the amount. SERVES 4
RAW TOMATO SAUCE
1½ pounds vine-ripened heirloom beefsteak or other juicy tomatoes, coarsely chopped
½ cup Kalamata or other good-quality black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
½ cup loosely packed chopped fresh basil leaves
4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained and finely minced (about 2 teaspoons)
2 tablespoons nonpareil capers
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon minced fresh hot green chile such as serrano (optional)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
PASTA
Fine sea salt
¾ pound whole wheat or spelt linguine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves, for garnish
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling (optional)
1 First, make the tomato sauce. Place the chopped tomatoes with their juices in a medium bowl. Add all the other ingredients and stir well to combine. Set aside at room temperature for the flavors to meld, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust.
2 While the tomatoes are releasing their sweet juices, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at a gentle boil until the pasta is al dente, according to the package directions.
3 To finish, drain the pasta and return it to the pot or to a large serving bowl. Pour the tomato sauce over the pasta and toss to combine. Garnish with the remaining 2 tablespoons basil and drizzle with more olive oil, if you like. Serve at once.
TO VARY IT: Homemade Spelt Fettuccine are also delicious here if the fancy strikes you.
Fettuccine with Salmon, Tomatoes, and Golden Raisins
Cumin, coriander, and cinnamon play a starring role in this creamy pasta. This