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By Root 885 0

I’m always amazed to slide my knife into the first Peruvian Blue of the season, finding its insides as vivid as a ripe blueberry. As it happens, the phytochemical responsible for the gorgeous color of blueberries and blue potatoes is the same one—a powerful antioxidant. Some antiaging facial products on the market feature mashed blueberries as a main ingredient. Nobody in my household has tried rubbing potatoes on her face to preserve a youthful complexion, but we take them internally, appreciating all the nutrients in our potato rainbow. Even white potatoes, eaten with their skins, give us vitamins C and B6, and nearly twice the potassium per serving as a banana.

The potato’s bad rep comes from its glycemic index (GI), a tool used to rate the increase in blood sugar caused by eating particular foods. Foods with a high GI (like sugar and corn sweetener, also) cause a sharp rise in blood glucose that stimulates high levels of blood insulin. It’s hard on the body when that happens frequently, and has been linked to Type II diabetes. But if potatoes are eaten along with foods containing some fiber, protein, and fat, those lower the body’s glycemic response so that insulin levels stay calm.

A potato’s nutritional value is a package best delivered in its own wrapper. Unfortunately, eating potato skins is not always safe. Because they grow underground, conventional potatoes are among the most pesticide-contaminated vegetables. Potatoes in the United States commonly contain chlorinated hydrocarbon insecticides and sometimes even residues of DDT, dieldrin, and chlordane, extremely hazardous chemicals that have been banned since 1978 but linger in the soil. Conventionally grown potatoes are so contaminated, the Environmental Working Group warns parents not to feed them to infants and toddlers unless they’re thoroughly peeled and boiled. This makes a strong case for buying organic potatoes from trustworthy growers who know the history of the land where their produce is raised.

We’re lucky enough to have home-grown. Potato salad is one dish our household never goes without, although it changes with the seasons. We eat many other root vegetables too, and plenty of sweet potatoes and winter squash in the autumn months. I’ve included Mom’s infamous pumpkin soup recipe here, and dinner menus for a typical autumn week at our house.

FOUR SEASONS OF POTATO SALAD

WINTER

4 cups large storage potatoes, coarsely diced and boiled until firmly tender 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped

¾ cup last summer’s dill pickles, finely chopped 2 tablespoons dill

Salt to taste

Mayonnaise—a few tablespoons

Combine potatoes, eggs, and pickles, being careful not to mash anything. Add dill and salt to mixture and combine thoroughly. Add just enough mayonnaise to hold the salad together.

SPRING

4 cups storage potatoes, coarsely dicd

1/3 cup fresh mint leaves 1–2 cups new peas 1 cup crumbled feta

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Boil diced potatoes as above. Combine ingredients.

SUMMER

2 pounds red or golden new potatoes, cut in 1-inch chunks

3 tablespoons olive oil

Coarse salt

2 yellow or red bell peppers, cut in chunks

2 cups green beans (stringed and broken in 1-inch lengths)

1–2 ears sweet corn on cob

Toss potatoes with salt and oil and spread on baking sheet. Roast in 450° oven until tender (20–30 minutes). Place ears of corn, lightly oiled, with the potatoes. Add peppers and green beans to roast for last 10 minutes. When done, loosen the vegetables with a spatula, cut corn kernels off cob, and combine in a large, shallow bowl.

2 cups tomatoes cut in wedges

½ cup fresh basil

¼ cup olive oil whipped together with 1 tablespoon balsamic or other mellow vinegar

Toss tomatoes, basil, and dressing with roasted vegetables; salt to taste.

FALL

2 pounds fingerling potatoes (such as Russian Banana, Rose Finn, La Ratte)

Seasonal vegetables

4 tablespoons dried basil

¼ cup olive oil whipped with 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Prepare roasted potatoes as in “Summer” recipe, combining with late-season peppers and green beans, shelly