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By Root 857 0

Even the ancient Hindu populations of India were not complete vegetarians—though they did not know this. Traditional harvesting techniques always left a substantial amount of insect parts, mostly termite larvae and eggs, in their grain supply. When vegan Hindu populations began moving to England, where food sanitation regulations are stricter, they began to suffer from a high incidence of anemia. Just a tiny amount of meat (even bug parts!) in the diet makes a big difference. Of course, abstaining from meat for relatively short periods for spiritual reasons is a practice common to many societies. During these times, traditionally, we’re meant to be less active and more contemplative, reducing our need for the nutrients supplied by animal products.

Generally speaking, people who are not strict vegetarians will find more options in their local-food scene. Pasture-based meat and eggs are produced nearly everywhere in the country, unlike soybean curd and other products that may anchor a vegan diet. Chicken, lamb, and other meats from small farms are available throughout the year. And while animal fats—even for meat eaters—are considered nutrition ogres, they are actually much healthier than the hydrogenated oils that replace them in many processed foods. (Trans fat, a laboratory creation, has no nutritional function in our bodies except to float around producing free radicals that can damage tissue.) Good-quality animal fats contain vitamins A, D, B6, and B12, and some essential minerals. Free-range meat and eggs have a healthy rather than unhealthy cholesterol content, because of what the animal ate during its happy little life.

The following is a chicken recipe we invented that reminds us of Tucson. We use free-range chicken, and fresh vegetables in summer, but in early spring we rely on our frozen zucchini and corn from last summer. The one essential fresh ingredient—cilantro—begins to show up early in farmers’ markets. If you don’t like cilantro, leave it out, of course, but the dish will lose its southwestern flavor.

CHICKEN RECUERDOS DE TUCSON

1 whole cut-up chicken, or thighs and legs

Olive oil (for sauté) 1 medium onion, sliced 2–3 cloves garlic, minced

Brown chicken in a large kettle. Remove chicken, add oil, and gently sauté the onion and garlic.

1 teaspoon cumin seed

Green chiles to taste, chopped

2 red or green peppers

1 large or 2 medium zucchini or other squash, thickly sliced

Add to kettle and sauté, add small amount of broth if necessary.

1 cup tomatoes (fresh, frozen, canned, or ½ cup dehydrated, depending on season)

2 cups corn kernels

2 teaspoons oregano

1 teaspoon basil

2 cups chicken broth or water

Add to kettle along with browned chicken, add water or broth (more if using dried vegetables), cover, and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until chicken is done to bone. Garnish with fresh cilantro.

Download this and all other Animal, Vegetable, Miracle recipes at www.AnimalVegetableMiracle.com

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7 • GRATITUDE

May

On Mother’s Day, in keeping with local tradition, we gave out tomato plants. Elsewhere this may be the genteel fête of hothouse orchids, but here the holiday’s most important botanical connection is with tomatoes. Killing spring frosts may safely be presumed behind us, and it’s time to get those plants into the garden.

We grow ours from seed, so it’s not just the nursery-standard Big Boys for us; we raise more than a dozen different heirloom varieties. For our next-door neighbor we picked out a narrow-leaved early bearer from the former Soviet Union with the romantic name of “Silvery Fir Tree.” Carrying the leggy, green-smelling plant, our family walked down the gravel driveway to her house at the bottom of our hollow.

“Oh, well, goodness,” she said, taking the plant from us and admiring it. “Well, look at that.”

Every region has its own language. In ours, it’s a strict rule that you never say “Thank you” for a plant. I don’t know why. I was corrected many times on this point, even scolded earnestly, before I learned. People have shushed me as I started to utter the