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a note about sustainable soups

There are a few options available when choosing a liquid soup base. There is water, of course; water mixed with bouillon cubes or paste to make a liquid; canned or boxed broths; and homemade broth. Think about sustainability when you choose your soup base. (In this context, “sustainable” means using a minimum of energy from start to finish.) This chart lists the choices from most to least sustainable.

Filtered tap water

Filtered tap water with bouillon cubes (only organic)

Homemade vegetable stock (page 113)

Homemade chicken stock (page 112)

Homemade beef stock

Boxed vegetable broth

Boxed meat broth

Canned vegetable broth

Canned meat broth

classic cucumber soup

SERVES 6 TO 8

The summer I learned I would be a cookbook author, my grandmother Gail asked me if I had a cold cucumber soup recipe. I didn’t, but I decided I needed to have one in my arsenal of recipes, so here it is, for her.

1

tablespoon olive oil, plus additional for drizzling on the soup

1

medium shallot, finely chopped

2

scallions, coarsely chopped (white and green parts)

3

pounds large cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes

4

cups Chicken Stock (page 112)

1

cup whole milk

2

cups plain yogurt

2

teaspoons minced fresh dill

11/2

teaspoons ground cumin

2

teaspoons minced fresh mint

2

teaspoons minced fresh chives

2

teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Fresh mint leaves for garnish

2

large fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped, for garnish (optional)

1. Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the shallot and scallions and cook for 2 minutes, or until the shallot is slightly translucent. Add the cucumbers and stir for an additional 2 minutes. Add the stock and remove from the heat. Working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender and puree until smooth.

2. Transfer the soup to a large bowl. Whisk in the milk, yogurt, dill, cumin, mint, chives, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate for at least 1½ hours.

3. Serve the soup chilled in individual bowls topped with a drizzle of olive oil and a mint leaf. Add the chopped fresh tomato for color, if desired.

fennel soup

SERVES 6 TO 8

I recently learned that fennel is one of the three main ingredients used in absinthe, an alcoholic beverage popular in France at the beginning of the twentieth century. It was later outlawed in many countries because it was considered too mind-altering. This soup won’t get you drunk, but it will definitely alter your taste buds. The sweet anise flavor and the creaminess of the soup will delight your palate.

11/2

tablespoons canola oil

1

medium white onion, chopped

2

garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

4

large fennel bulbs, trimmed and coarsely chopped, fronds reserved

4

cups Chicken Stock (page 112)

Salt to taste

2

teaspoons ground toasted fennel seeds (see Cook’s Note)

1. Heat the oil in a medium to large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Add the fennel and stock, bring to a boil, and simmer, uncovered, over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes, until the fennel is fork-tender.

2. Working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender and puree until smooth. Return the soup to the pot, season with salt, and reheat on a low flame. Add the ground fennel seeds and mix well. Ladle into individual bowls. Chop the reserved fennel fronds and sprinkle over the top.

* * *

COOK’S NOTE: To toast the fennel seeds, put them in a small skillet over medium-high heat and stir constantly (so they don’t burn) until the seeds begin to release their aroma and brown slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool completely. To grind the fennel seeds, pulse them in a small food processor for 5 to 10 seconds. If you don’t have a small