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Like Paul Stamets, I view mushrooms as gifts from the gods. Their strange colors, awkward shapes, and diverse flavors always add adventure to a dish. Whether dried or fresh, mushrooms bring an unparalleled earthiness to the plate. Considered the plant par excellence for gathering, mushrooms truly are hidden treasures. But unless you have a reliable book or an expert guide, “forage” only in farmers’ markets and grocery stores.

While most mushroom varieties are available year-round, take advantage of the seasonal varieties, such as spring morels and fall chanterelles, when planning a dish or a menu. When selecting mushrooms, look for those with firm, smooth flesh; pass on any bruised or wrinkled specimens. Never wash mushrooms before cooking them, as they’ll absorb the water; just wipe them clean with a damp cloth. Store fresh mushrooms in paper bags to let them breathe, preferably in their own drawer in the refrigerator so they don’t absorb the odors of other foods. It’s best not to slice mushrooms until you’re ready to use them because whole mushrooms keep longer than sliced. Fresh mushrooms will last for three days in the refrigerator.

Dried mushrooms are an other option. They will keep in an airtight container for up to six months. Dried mushrooms can be reconstituted in any liquid, including water, stock, and wine. In general, both the mushroom caps and stems can be used.

Whether you are using fresh or dried mushrooms, feel free to experiment with various cooking techniques. The flavor of mushrooms explodes when sautéed, roasted, or baked, and some can even be enjoyed raw.

Here are some of the most common wild and cultivated mushrooms:

BUTTON: Also known as white mushrooms, these are the most common mushrooms found in the market. This white-to-beige-colored variety is mild in flavor and is available in three sizes: small, medium, and large.

CHANTERELLE: This wild mushroom ranges in color from pale yellow to bright orange and has a nutty flavor. Chanterelles are wonderful served raw in salads and in cooked dishes, such as risottos and soups. Just add them late in the cooking process so they don’t toughen up. Chanterelle season runs from September through early December.

CREMINI: These brown mushrooms are a variation of the button mushroom but with a more pronounced flavor. With round caps averaging 1 inch in diameter, they’re available fresh year-round. Creminis can be served both raw and cooked.

ENOKI: These white, stringy mushrooms with a mild, sweet flavor originated in Japan. They’re usually served raw or lightly cooked and are an excellent source of vitamin D. Before eating, be sure to cut away the clump at the bottom of the mushroom. Enoki can be found fresh year-round, but they’re also available canned.

MOREL: This wild mushroom variety is among the most expensive. Light tan to dark brown in color with honeycombed, hollow caps and hollow stems, morels are often compared to truffles. They add a very rich flavor to dishes and are best when simply sautéed in butter. Found fresh in the markets from spring to early summer, they are also available canned and dried.

OYSTER: This fan-shaped mushroom is pale gray to deep tan in color. Oyster mushrooms have a delicate, almost peppery flavor and can be eaten raw, although they’re usually cooked. Available fresh year-round, oyster mushrooms are also available canned.

PORCINI: Also known as cèpes, porcini mushrooms have a nutty, buttery flavor and are most readily available dried. When fresh, these large wild mushrooms are deep brown in color and lack the gills found in most mushrooms. Fresh porcini are hard to find, but are available twice a year, in late spring and fall. Soak dried porcini in liquid for at least 20 minutes before using.

PORTOBELLO: These large brown mushrooms are simply larger cremini, with a flat cap about 4 to 6 inches in diameter. The stems are too tough to eat but can be saved to make soups or stocks. This variety has a