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By Root 287 0

about Spain is the gazpacho. We ate it everywhere, in cafes, restaurants, tapas bars, and even nightclubs. It was served in little glasses, big bowls, and cups, and it was poured from glass pitchers. The accompaniments included garlicky croutons, chopped boiled egg, scallions, and basil. It was even available at the grocery store in cartons, like milk and orange juice. I like gazpacho smooth and chilled, topped with olive oil, cracked black pepper, and a heaping mound of chopped cilantro. In this recipe I call for multicolored heirloom tomatoes, but feel free to use modern red varieties. Although this recipe does contain chile peppers, I assure you it is not spicy: it just has a well-rounded flavor.

3

garlic cloves

Pinch of salt

3

slices (about 3 to 4 ounces) stale good-quality bread, crust removed

21/2

pounds multicolored heirloom tomatoes, quartered

1/2

English cucumber or 3/4 common cucumber, peeled, seeded, and quartered

1/2

green or red serrano chile, seeded

1

red bell pepper, seeded and quartered

2

tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2

cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus additional for serving

Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish

Freshly cracked black pepper to taste

1. Using a mortar and pestle, crush the garlic with the salt until a smooth paste forms. Alternatively, put the garlic cloves on a wooden cutting board, thinly slice, and sprinkle with salt. With the heel of your hand against the blunt side of a sharp knife, push the blade into the salted garlic repeatedly until a smooth paste forms. Transfer the paste to a small bowl and set aside.

2. Put the bread and tomatoes into the bowl of a food processor and pulse until chunky. Add the cucumber, chile, and bell pepper and puree until smooth, about 2 minutes.

3. Pour the soup through a food mill and then return it to the food processor. Add the garlic paste, vinegar, and salt to taste and continue processing. While the machine is running, add the olive oil in a slow stream, and process until the soup has a smooth and creamy consistency.

4. Serve the gazpacho in individual bowls topped with chopped cilantro, cracked black pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil.

* * *

COOK’S NOTES: If you want to add a crunchy texture to this soup, go ahead and make a batch of Garlic and Parmesan Croutons (page 90).

There are more than 100 varieties of cucumbers grown around the world, but the English is my favorite. Thin and long, the English cucumber has smaller seeds than common cucumbers. It is sold unwaxed, wrapped in plastic. (Common cucumbers are oft en waxed to prevent moisture loss.) English cucumbers are available year-round, but their true season is May through September.

* * *

chicken stock

MAKES 6 TO 8 CUPS

Organic boxed and canned stocks are great time-savers, but I firmly believe that a homemade stock adds that extra something to a homemade soup. You simply can’t beat it, and it’s the greener option to its counterpoints.

2

tablespoons olive oil

3

carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

3

yellow or white onions, coarsely chopped, including skins

3

celery ribs, including leaves, cut into 1-inch pieces

4

garlic cloves with skins on, smashed

2

leeks, washed and coarsely chopped (white parts only)

4

pounds chicken, including necks and backs, cut into 8 pieces (ask your butcher to do this)

5

sprigs fresh thyme

15

sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

3

bay leaves

12

whole peppercorns

1. Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, onions, celery, garlic, and leeks and cook for 5 minutes to release the flavors.

2. Add the chicken, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, and peppercorns and cover with 9 to 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, skim the foam off the surface, cover, and then reduce to a simmer. Continue simmering for 3 to 4 hours.

3. Allow the stock to cool slightly and skim the fat off the top. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer.

* * *

COOK’S NOTES: I realize there is a large discrepancy between