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Polychlorinated biphenyl (PCB), an industrial chemical that has been banned in the United States for decades, is commonly found in farm-raised salmon. Farm-raised salmon account for most of the salmon supply in the United States. They are fed ground-up fish that absorb PCBs, which persist in our streams, lakes, and oceans. The problem is compounded because farmed salmon have a fish diet that is rich in fat, and PCBs are absorbed more easily through fat. (Farmed salmon contain 52 percent more fat than wild salmon, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.) When eating farmed salmon, trim the fat from the salmon and drain off any fat from cooking to lower the risk of ingesting PCBs.

Some fish farms claim they use fish meal made from fish that come from clean water, so their salmon contain lower levels of PCBs. That sort of claim may be worth investigating. Always go for wild-caught salmon. If not available, choose a more sustainable option.

barbecue baked alaskan salmon

SERVES 6

This is probably one of the easiest recipes in my repertoire. It couldn’t be simpler: Open a jar of barbecue sauce, pour it over salmon fillets, and bake. It’s great with Sautéed Fresh Corn with Cilantro and Scallions (page 187) and Garlicky Baby Bok Choy (page 183). Go for wild-caught Alaskan salmon, even if it has been frozen. It is your most sustainable choice. The difference in the flavor of wild salmon as compared to farmed is noticeable as well. Be sure to avoid barbecue sauce made with high-fructose corn syrup.

Six

8-ounce Alaskan salmon fillets

21/2

cups barbecue sauce

Salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spray a baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Lay the salmon fillets, skin-side down, on the baking pan. Pour the barbecue sauce over the salmon, making sure each piece is completely covered. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Bake the salmon for 15 to 20 minutes, until cooked through but still tender. (Test with a knife; the meat should be somewhat firm and the juices should run clear.) Carefully transfer to a serving platter.

double lemon chicken breasts with fresh tomato basil salsa

SERVES 4 TO 8

While I was pregnant with my daughter, India, we spent the entire summer in Italy. My husband and I took a two-week intensive immersion language class, and one day during a lunch break we came upon a tiny family-owned trattoria called Da Dino (“At Dino’s”). It was nothing fancy, just two old ladies cooking simple Italian fare. True to the cravings of a pregnant woman, I ate the lemon chicken breast with a side of garlic spinach every day for those two weeks. In this recipe I serve the lemon chicken with a garlicky tomato salsa instead, called checca in Italian. The key to this dish is using thinly sliced chicken breasts, so ask your butcher to fillet each chicken breast half into 2 or 3 pieces, if possible.

tomato basil salsa

5

plum tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

5

large fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced

1

tablespoon minced garlic

2

tablespoons olive oil

Pinch of salt

Pinch of pepper

lemon chicken

3/4

cup all-purpose flour

1

tablespoon grated lemon zest

Salt and pepper to taste

8

skinless boneless chicken breast fillets, pounded until 1/2 inch thick

Grapeseed or canola oil for cooking

2 to 3

lemons, halved

1. To make the salsa, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Set aside.

2. To prepare the chicken, combine the flour, lemon zest, and salt and pepper on a flat dinner plate. Using a fork, mix together until thoroughly combined.

3. Wash the chicken breasts and pat them dry. Dredge each fillet in the flour mixture, making sure to coat both sides. Set aside.

4. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the grapeseed oil, using just enough to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken fillets in batches, cooking each side until lightly golden (about 2 minutes per side). Before removing the chicken from the pan, squeeze generous