Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [102]
On the next day, take a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle to Point Sublime, a place that lives up to its name. It’s hard to get there and totally worth it – this is classic, breathtaking Grand Canyon scenery. Don’t even think about taking a low-clearance vehicle down the dirt road, which is deeply rutted in some sections, and be well versed in the art of changing a tire. The 18-mile road to Point Sublime begins at the Widforss Point parking lot and passes through ponderosa forest before reaching a clearing. It then enters the forest again and eventually tapers into piñon and juniper scrub. The point is an excellent place to camp and contemplate the views of the canyon’s buttes and spires as the light and shadow slither over them.
Returning from Point Sublime the next day, you’ll have to leave the park, drive through the town of Fredonia and take a 61-mile BLM washboard road to get to your next, most remote port of call, so consider spending the night outside the park. Set yourself up in one of the older cabins at the Kaibab Lodge, 18 miles from the rim, to get a jump on the next day’s drive to Tuweep.
With one of the most outstanding overlooks in the park, Tuweep is not typical of the North Rim. On the western end of the canyon and at a low elevation of 4552ft, it’s extremely hot, and has more open views within the canyon, with fewer spires and buttes. The 3000ft vertical drop to the Colorado is nothing if not stunning, and at this point in the canyon, it’s only about a mile across to the South Rim. Because of its remoteness, it has more of a wilderness feel to it. There are 10 primitive, first-come, first-served campsites, and as with Point Sublime, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive to bump out there on the rough road. Be prepared for the unexpected – bring more water than you think you’ll need, a spare tire or two, and your sense of adventure.
Wendy Yanagihara
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DETOUR
Allow at least four days to hike the challenging but rewarding rim-to-river Nankoweap Trail. Or camp at the trailhead, which itself is located in the Kaibab National Forest. According to Reese, “The geology out there is so fascinating, if you know where the fault lines are going; they are so complex but so distinct. The trailhead is a great viewpoint for that.”
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Take I-15 north from Las Vegas through St George, then head eastward to Hwy 89 and south on Hwy 67.
Do
Canyon Trail Rides
Book half-day or full-day mule rides upon arrival at the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim. 435-679-8665; www.canyonrides.com; North Rim; rides $30-125; 7am-5pm, mid-May–mid-Oct
North Rim Backcountry Information Office
You’ll need a backcountry permit for Cottonwood Campground or one of the campsites on the North Rim. 928-638-7868; www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountrypermit.htm; North Rim; 8am-noon & 1-5pm mid-May–mid-Oct
EAT & DRINK
Deli in the Pines
Get packaged but fresh takeout, or eat in at this one budget spot on the North Rim. 928-638-2611, 928-645-6865; www.grandcanyonforever.com; North Rim; mains $5-10; 7am-9pm mid-May–mid-Oct;
Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room
Although the window tables are the most coveted for the views, you can’t really go wrong at any table. 877-386-4383; www.grandcanyonforever.com; North Rim; mains $5-27; 6:30-10am, 11:30am-2:30pm, 4:45-9:45pm mid-May–mid-Oct;
Jacob Lake Inn Restaurant
During the winter, dining is only available at the counter and the kitchen closes a half-hour earlier. Located 44 miles north of North Rim. 928-643-7232; www.jacoblake.com; mains $5-15; 6:30am-9pm;
Roughrider Saloon
Get