• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 771 0

leave plenty of time to get back to Moab for your reservation at casually elegant Center Café, which supports the local farmers market and youth garden. Lingering over sautéed shrimp with cheddar-and-garlic grits served in the back garden, you have ample opportunity to reflect on not only the earth’s bounty but the tumultuous forces that created it. Now if your calves would just stop throbbing from so many days of hiking.

Lisa Dunford

Return to beginning of chapter

* * *

TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Las Vegas, Zion National Park is a 160-mile, 70-plus-mph drive northwest up I-15 and off onto smaller Hwy 9.

DO

Anasazi State Park

The ruins aren’t as evocative as some in southeastern Utah, but Ancestral Puebloan museum exhibits are well worth seeing. 435-335-7308; www.stateparks.utah.gov; Main St/Hwy 12, Boulder; admission $4; 9am-5pm

Arches National Park

Stop at the visitors center to see a park-overview video, check ranger-led activity schedules, reserve your tickets for a Fiery Furnace hike and buy maps. 435-719-2299; www.nps.gov/arch; Hwy 191; admission per vehicle/week $10; visitors center 8:30am-6:30pm

Backcountry Outfitters

In addition to 4WD and hiking packages, Backcountry Outfitters also rents bicycles ($38 per day) and ATVs ($150 per day) and provides shuttles. 435-425-2010; www.ridethereef.com; 677 E Hwy 24 at Hwy 12, Torrey; 9am-6pm

Bryce Canyon National Park

The visitors center sells loads of maps and books and gives out info about weather, road conditions and campsite availability. 435-834-5322; www.nps.gov/brca; Hwy 63; admission per vehicle/week $25; visitors center 8am-6pm

Canyonlands National Park – Island in the Sky District

Pick up your overlook driving tour CD for $10 (or rent it for $5) before you drive out to the fabulous vistas. 435-259-4712; www.nps.gov/cany/island; Hwy 313; admission per vehicle $10, includes Needles District; visitors center 8am-6pm

Canyonlands National Park – Needles District

Ask rangers about the 4WD roads the park is known for. Even if you’re hiking, watching can be quite a show. 435-259-4711; www.nps.gov/cany/needles; Hwy 211; admission per vehicle $10, includes Island District; visitors center 8am-6pm

Capitol Reef National Park

Watch the short film, then ooh and aah over the 64-sq-ft park relief map, carved with dental instruments. Ranger-led hikes available. 435-425-3791; www.nps.gov/care; cnr Hwy 24 & Scenic Dr; scenic drive $5; visitors center 8am-6pm

Dead Horse Point State Park

To escape the small (but sometimes chatty) crowds at the main overlook points, take a walk around the mesa rim. 435-259-2614; www.stateparks.utah.gov; admission $10; visitors center 8am-5pm, trails dawn-dusk

Kolob Canyons Visitor Center

Admission to Zion National Park’s main section includes admission to Kolob Canyons, and vice versa. Hold onto your receipt. 435-586-0895; Kolob Canyons Rd, off I-15; admission per vehicle/week $25; visitors center 8am-4:30pm

Newspaper Rock Recreation Area

This tiny, free turn-out showcases a single large sandstone rock panel packed with more than 300 petroglyphs attributed to Ute and Ancestral Puebloan groups. www.blm.gov; Hwy 211

Zion National Park

Rangers are on hand to answer questions and lead interpretive hikes from the main visitors center. Mandatory shuttle rides (April through October) start there. 435-772-3256; www.nps.gov/zion; Hwy 9; admission per vehicle/week $25; visitors center 8am-6pm

EAT

Café Diablo

Don’t miss the creative Southwestern cuisine here. For something you won’t find back home, try the rattlesnake cakes. 435-425-3070; 599 W Main St, Torrey; mains $20-24; 5-10pm Apr-Oct

Center Café

Center Café’s chef-owner draws from regional American and Mediterranean influences. Budgeteers: come for the small plates served from 3pm to 6pm. 435-259-4295; 60 N 100 West, Moab; small plates $6-11, mains $18-30; 3-10pm

Hell’s Backbone Grill

This is foodie destination dining. Save room for desserts such as chimayo-chile ginger cake with butterscotch sauce. 435-335-7464; Boulder Mountain Lodge, cnr Hwy 12