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Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [120]

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at the strangely moving altar at the store’s center. Down the street, the always-crowded Barelas Coffeehouse, with its oddly short counter and simple decor, serves what many claim is the best New Mexican homecooking in the city.

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DETOUR

Duck and wind your way through the 22-room Tinkertown Museum, stuffed floor to ceiling with Ross J Ward’s 20-year collection, including a 60ft miniature replica of an Old West town, Ward’s wood carvings and a Buddha in a glass-bottle shrine. It’s in the foothills of the Sandias (I-40 east, exit 175).

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When you’re ready to call it a day, head for dinner at Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Café, where you can take a dry-erase board quiz to determine your ayurvedic body type before ordering and the owner offers personalized menu selections. After a dessert of fresh coconut served whole with a straw and zucchini cake, retreat to Casa de Sueno for the night. Designed as an artists’ colony in the 1930s, this adobe compound with 21 casitas hosted slews of artists and writers through the years, many attracted to the city’s quirky vibe and distinct personality.

Yes, Albuquerque is a funny place. It’s the kind of place folks stumble into on their way to somewhere else. We’ll just stay for a couple years, they say. And 30, 40 years later, they’re still here, watching the Sandias turn red at sunset.

Jennifer Denniston


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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

Albuquerque sits at the intersection of two major interstates, I-40 and I-25, 63 miles south of Santa Fe.

DO

Albuquerque International Balloon Museum

More than anyone thought they’d want to know on the history, culture, sport and science of hot-air balloons. 505-768-6020; www.balloonmuseum.com; 9201 Balloon Museum Dr, Albuquerque; adult/child $4/3; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun;

American International Rattlesnake Museum

Like walking into the home of a good friend who just happens to be a snake fanatic with the world’s largest collection of live rattlesnakes. 505-242-6569; www.rattlesnake.com; 202 San Felipe St NW, Albuquerque; adult/child $2.50/3.50; 11:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun, seasonal variations;

Cowboys & Indians Antiques

As much a museum as a store, this small Route 66 gallery sells quality antique Western, Native American and Hispanic art and memorabilia. 505-255-4054; www.cowboysandindiansnm.com; 4000 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque; 10am-6pm

National Atomic Museum

Check out B-21 bombers, the history of Madame Curie, displays on atomic culture and more. 505-245-2137; www.atomicmuseum.com; 601 Eubank Blvd SE, Albuquerque; adult/child 6-17 $6/4; 9am-5pm daily;

Ruppe B Drug

Maclovia Zamora dispenses traditional Native American and Hispanic healing remedies at this 100-year-old business. 505-243-6719; 807 4th St SW, Albuquerque; 10am-6pm daily

Unser Racing Museum

You gotta love a museum with this much passion, even if you’ve never watched a NASCAR race in your entire life. 505-341-1776; www.unserracingmuseum.com; 1776 Montano Rd NW, Albuquerque; adult/child 7-12 yr $7/3; 10am-4pm daily;

EAT

Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Café

Even dedicated carnivores will enjoy tasty grains, veggies and fruit dishes. Vegan and gluten-free options. 505-262-2424; 2201 Silver Ave SE, Albuquerque; mains $4-10; 7am-8pm Mon-Wed, 7am-9pm Thu-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun

Barelas Coffeehouse

Classic neighborhood restaurant with a city-wide following. 505-843-7577; 1502 4th St SW, Albuquerque; mains $4-12; 7:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 2:30pm Sat

Frontier Restaurant

Albuquerque institution since 1971 for cheap and delicious green-chile stew and fresh-squeezed OJ in a no-frills space on old Route 66. 505-266-0550; 2400 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque; mains $4-8; 5am-1am daily

SLEEP

Casa de Suenos

Historic casitas (small houses) close to shops and museums in Old Town. Many suites have a kiva fireplace or hot tub, and a full breakfast is included. 800-665-7002; www.casadesuenos.com; 310 Rio Grande Blvd SW, Albuquerque; ste $150-189

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.itsatrip.org

www.publiclands.org

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