Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [126]
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ASK A LOCAL
“On the Plush Trail there’s this really cool old alligator juniper tree that takes about three people to put their hands around it and the bark looks like real alligator skin. There are carved benches under the tree, and that’s where we relax, take a break, drink a beer, and then we drop down into the aspens. It’s so beautiful up there.”
Albert Ortega
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Return to El Rancho for some well-earned slumber. Spice up your gastro variety with a visit to the off-the-path Genaro’s Café and a green-chile burger – ask for the chile on the side, unless you want a soppy bun. It also serves classic Mexican food like tamales and chile rellenos.
Fuel up on your third day with a full breakfast at the Coffee House – local art on the walls, overstuffed couches and newspapers, and of course strong espresso. The Zuni Mountains are your next stop, about 15 miles southeast of Gallup and best reached by car. From Gallup head east on I-40 to exit 33 onto Hwy 400 and follow this road for 7.7 miles to the parking lot on the right for the Mile Marker Three Trail System. Running through the Cibola National Forest, the trailhead is at 7500ft – a thousand-foot gain from High Desert – and has lots of tree cover, which makes biking here much cooler. The 68-mile trail system is true forest single track – the path is 2ft at its widest! Beginners should ride the 8-mile Quaking Aspen Trail past ponderosa pines and gangly white aspens. It’s a real mountain-bike trail, with loose rocks and all, but the climbs and descents aren’t too technical. Our favorite ride at Three Mile incorporates a number of trails to form a perfectly balanced – one third flat, one third up and one third down in alternating orders – 16-mile loop. The loop doesn’t have a name, but is easy to follow. Take Quaking Aspen to the Plush trail, then jump on Turkey Nest and follow it to the Y2K trail, which eventually leads back to Quaking Aspen and the main parking lot.
Aaron Anderson
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Gallup is 139 miles west of Albuquerque on I-40 (Historic Route 66).
DO
High Desert Trail System
The visitors center has maps; take the Chico/Gamerco exit of I-40 to reach the main trailhead. 800-242-4282; www.galupnm.org; 701 Montoya Blvd; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri
High Mesa Bikes
Rents bikes, has loads of info on the Mile Marker Three and High Desert Trail Systems and sells the latest outdoor gear. 505-863-3825; www.highmesabikes.com; 123 W Coal Ave; rentals per day $35-65; 10am-6pm Tue-Sat
EAT & SLEEP
49ers Bar
Have a cocktail at the congenial Old West bar in the El Rancho. There’s music nightly. 505-863-9311; www.elranchohotel.com; 1000 E Hwy 66; 7am-midnight
Coffee House
A mellow atmosphere attracts locals, artists, bikers and musicians. Sandwiches and strong espresso are on the menu, and there’s wi-fi. 505-726-0291; 203 W Coal Ave; mains $4-10; 7am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 4pm Sun
El Rancho
Hollywood goes authentic Native American at Gallup’s best, and only, full-service lodging option. 505-863-9311; www.elranchohotel.com; 1000 E Hwy 66; r $65-100
El Rancho Restaurant
New Mexican and American cuisine is served amid old Hollywood photos and frontier surroundings at this restaurant inside the hotel of the same name. 505-863-9311; www.elranchohotel.com; 1000 E Hwy 66; mains $8-20; 7am-midnight
Genaro’s Café
Enjoy generous portions of favorites like Stuffed Poblanos and Sopaipillas at this hidden gem. If you like it hotter, the red chile will make you feel right at home. 505-863-6761; 600 W Hill Ave; mains $6-12; 10:30am-8pm Tue-Sat
The Tropics
Stock up on cold microbrews right