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important today. And Nambé’s remaining lands have a couple of big attractions, including Lake Nambé. It was created in 1974 after the US federal government dammed the Rio Nambé, flooding historic ruins but creating an important reservoir that attracts non-motorized boaters and trout lovers. There’s nowhere to sleep around Nambé Pueblo, so go south to Santa Fe and spend the night at the posh Inn at Loretto, modeled after the Taos Pueblo. Start early on day two as your next two pueblos are a few hours’ drive west. You can grab dinner at the hotel’s swish but affordable Luminaria. Dine under the romantic canopies on the patio or inside modern, candlelit environs. Either way, chef Brian Cooper is making local waves for his original contemporary American dishes served with a signature Santa Fe twist. There’s live music in the evenings.

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THE ORIGINAL APARTMENTS

Pueblos are the original apartments, unique among the country’s Native American dwellings. These adobe structures can have up to five levels, connected by ladders, and are built with varying combinations of mud bricks, stones, logs and plaster. In the central plaza of each pueblo is a kiva, an underground ceremonial chamber that connects to the spirit world.

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There are few more dramatic mesa-top locations than Acoma Pueblo (they don’t call it “Sky City” for nothing), sitting 7000ft above sea level and 367ft above the surrounding plateau 63 miles southwest of Albuquerque. It’s one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in North America: people have lived here since the later part of the 11th century. The pueblo is famous for pottery, which is sold by individual artists on the mesa. Traditional Acoma pottery is made from clay dug on the reservation and then painted. Ask before buying if this is how the vase or mug you are looking at was made, as there is a distinction between this traditional method and what locals call “ceramic” pottery (it is made elsewhere with “inferior clay” and simply painted by the artist).

Return back to I-40 from Acoma Pueblo and head west towards Gallup, turning off onto scenic Hwy 53 and then to the Zuni Pueblo. Take some time to walk around and soak up the history. Besides ancient stone houses and beehive-shaped mud ovens, you’ll pass the massive Our Lady of Guadalupe Mission, featuring impressive locally painted murals of about 30 life-size kachinas (Hopi spirit dolls). The church dates from 1629, although it has been rebuilt twice since then. It’s a good example of the Christian missionary influence on the area. The Ashiwi Awan Museum & Heritage Center displays early photos and other tribal artifacts and is worth a quick visit. End your Native American odyssey with a good night’s sleep at Inn at Halona. Rooms here are decorated with local Zuni arts and crafts, and this is the only place to stay on the pueblo.

Becca Blond

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DETOUR

For a comprehensive overview on visiting New Mexico’s pueblos, stop by Albuquerque’s Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (www.indianpueblo.org). Operated by the pueblos themselves, you’ll get an idea of what to expect from each distinct village. A historical museum here traces the development of Pueblo cultures; exhibits compare cultures through languages, customs and crafts; an art gallery features changing exhibits and a restaurant serves Pueblo fare.

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

Taos Pueblo is 135 miles from Albuquerque. Follow I-25 to Hwy 285 to Hwy 68, all going north to Taos town; turn right on Pueblo Rd and continue 3 miles.

DO

Acoma Pueblo

Visitors can only reach Sky City on guided tours leaving every 45 minutes from the visitors center. 505-469-1052; I-40 exit 96, 13 miles south; tours adult/child $10/7; closed Jul 10-13, early Oct

Ashiwi Awan Museum & Heritage Center

Will cook traditional meals for groups of 10 or more ($10 per person) with advance reservations. 505-782-4403; Ojo Caliente Rd, Zuni Pueblo; admission by donation; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri

Lake Nambé

The Pueblo’s most popular attraction,