Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [13]
DETOUR
Nine miles south of Santa Rosa along Hwy 91, tiny Puerto de Luna was founded in the 1860s and is one of the oldest settlements in New Mexico. The drive there is pretty, winding through arroyos surrounded by eroded sandstone mesas. In town you’ll find an old county courthouse, a village church and a bunch of weathered adobe buildings. It’s all quite charming, as long as you’re not in a hurry to do something else.
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The Route 66 Auto Museum is also here. It boasts upwards of 35 cars in its exhibit hall, from the 1920s through the 1960s, all in beautiful condition, and lots of 1950s memorabilia. It’s a fun place; enjoy a milkshake at the ‘50s-style snack shack. Santa Rosa is home to nine long-established family-owned diners and roadside cafés, all with historic allure. Our pick is Joseph’s Bar & Grill. Route 66 nostalgia lines the walls of this place. Many of the bountiful Mexican and American recipes have been handed down through the generations and are used to good effect. Joseph’s also mixes the best margaritas on Route 66.
A ranching and farming town sandwiched between the mesas and the plains, Tucumcari is your final destination. For a Route 66 farewell, drive Tucumcari’s main street after the sun goes down and dozens of Old Western neon signs cast a crazy rainbow colored glow. The bright, flashing signs are relics of Tucumcari’s Route 66 heyday: business owners installed them as part of a crafty marketing campaign to attract weary travelers – basically the concept was the bigger and brighter the sign, the better the chance of convincing motorists to stop at your motel. Tucumcari’s Route 66 motoring legacy is recorded on 23 life-size murals around town. The pieces of art, which adorn buildings on and just north and south of Route 66, are the life work of local painters Doug and Sharon Quarles. Taking the town’s mural walk is a great way to stretch your legs and experience Tucumcari’s all-American history. Popular in these here parts for its menu of Mexican and American classic diner fare, Del’s Restaurant offers burgers and burritos, as well as a hearty salad bar and lots of soup choices. End your Route 66 odyssey in one of the most beautifully restored motor-court motels on the highway. The centuries melt away at the Blue Swallow Motel, which is listed on the State and National Registers of Historic Places. The motel’s classic neon sign has been featured in many Route 66 articles and boasts Blue Swallow offers a “100% refrigerated bar.”
Becca Blond
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
This trip starts in Topock Gorge, AZ, 15 miles east of the California line. The trip ends in Tucumcari, NM, 170 miles east of Albuquerque.
DO
Angel & Vilma Delgadillo’s Route 66 Gift Shop
The mother of Mother Road gift shops is run by an affable octogenarian named Angel, who is one of Route 66’s biggest fans. 928-422-3352; www.route66giftshop.com; 217 E Rte 66, Seligman, AZ; 9am-5pm
Blue Hole/Santa Rosa Dive Center
Visit this shop right next to the hole to rent equipment and buy a Blue Hole dive permit – you must show proof of certification. 505-472-3370; www.santarosanm.org; Hwy 40/US66, Santa Rosa, NM; weekly dive permit $8; 9am-dusk Sat & Sun, appt only Mon-Fri
El Morro Theater
Downtown Gallup’s centerpiece was beautifully restored in 2006; it hosts movies, theater and dance performances. 505-726-0050; 207 West Coal St, Gallup, NM; call for hours;
Grand Canyon Caverns & Inn
Besides the caverns, the complex has a motel, campsites and a restaurant serving burgers and fried food (mains $5 to $15). 928-422-3223; www.grandcanyoncaverns.com; Route 66 at Mile 115, AZ; 1hr tour adult/child $15/10; r $85, campsites $15-30; 8am-6pm May-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Apr;
Meteor Crater
You’re not allowed to go into the crater, but guided one-hour rim walking tours take you around the circumference. 928-289-2362; www.meteorcrater.com; adult/child/senior $15/7/13; Route 66, AZ; 7am-7pm Jun–mid-Sep, 8am-5pm mid-Sep–May
Mohave Museum of History & Arts
All sorts of regional