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Del Churro Saloon

An atmospheric old joint with copper-topped tables, lots of vegetation and a blazing fire in the winter. Margs are supersized. 505-982-4333; Inn of the Governors, 101 W Alameda, Santa Fe; mains under $6; 7am-late

Ore House

With more than 40 different types to choose from, there’s bound to be a margarita for everyone. 505-983-8687; 50 Lincoln Ave, Santa Fe; 11am-late

Rancho de Chimayó

In an adobe hacienda, this restaurant features old-school ambience, delicious homecooked New Mexican food and well-mixed margaritas. 505-351-4444; 300 County Rd 98, Chimayó; mains $8-16; 11:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-10:30pm Sat & Sun, closed Mon Nov-Apr

Sadie’s

A massive place with a barn-like atmosphere, Sadie’s is an Albuquerque institution serving the city’s best margs. 505-345-5339; 6230 4th St NW, Albuquerque; mains $5-13; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun;

Santuario de Chimayo

As many as 30,000 people make an annual pilgrimage to this c 1816 church, famous for its miraculous dirt, every year on Good Friday. 505-351-4889; NM 76, Chimayo; admission free; 9am-5pm, mass 11am Mon-Sat & noon Sun

SLEEP & EAT

Casa Escondida

A highly recommended Southwestern B&B, this is a low-key place with a hot tub for soaking sore limbs, and eight gorgeous rooms. 505-351-4805; www.casaescondida.com; 64 County Rd 100, Chimayó; r $99-149

Inn of the Governors

An intimate place to slumber. Rooms have working kiva fireplaces, wi-fi and Southwestern decor. 505-982-4333; 101 W Alameda, Santa Fe; r from $135

Tia Sophia’s

Breakfast is the meal of choice, with fantastic burritos and other Southwestern dishes. The shelf of kids’ books helps little ones pass the time. 505-983-9880; 210 W San Francisco St, Santa Fe; mains $3-9; 7am-2pm Mon-Sat;

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.tequilasource.com

LINK YOUR TRIP www.lonelyplanet.com/trip-planner

37 48 Hours in Santa Fe

39 Brewpub Crawl

56 New Mexico’s Wine Countries

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Return to beginning of chapter

Skiing the Enchanted Circle

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WHY GO Northern New Mexican skiing is all about long runs through icicle-dipped glades of fir, fast slams down steep shoots and awesome expert terrain. And now that snowboarders can ride the slopes at Taos Ski Valley, there’s no excuse for powder hounds not to shred their way around the Enchanted Circle’s low-key mountain resorts.

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TIME

3 days

DISTANCE

80 miles

BEST TIME TO GO

Dec – Mar

START

Taos Ski Valley

END

Red River

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Start in New Mexico’s top snow destination, the Taos Ski Valley. It’s the kind of place people move to in order to say they’ve “ski bummed” for a couple years. Those who have done so tell us there is just something special about the snow, challenging terrain and laid-back atmosphere that makes this mountain more addictive than hot cocoa.

Once exclusive to skiers, Taos Ski Valley recently let snowboarders start riding her 70-plus trails. Boasting 300in of all-natural powder and a peak elevation of 11,819ft, Taos is also a technical rider’s dream. From zipping down steep tree glades to jumping off cliffs into untouched snow bowls, this resort has a 2612ft vertical drop and more than 50% of its terrain is marked expert. If you just feel like playing on the rails and jumps, head to the terrain park that also features a cross obstacle course for skiers. When your legs are feeling sore, ride down to the Snakedance Condominiums & Spa at the bottom of the lifts. You can soak your muscles in the hot tub, warm up in the sauna or even call the concierge to arrange an in-room massage! Grab dinner and an après-ski drink at Tim’s Stray Dog Cantina, a ski-valley institution famous for its flame-roasted red and green chile.

There’s only one road in and out of Taos Ski Valley – Hwy 150 – and it takes you right past Taos Cow Ice Cream. Stop on your way out the next morning for a breakfast-time cone of sweet, edible snow (well ice cream, but close enough).