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by loca volunteers. The temperature is perfect, and so are the narrow canyon views. The hot springs are just outside the village of Arroyo Hondo. From Hwy 522, make a left just north of Herb’s Lounge onto County Rd 005. Follow the dirt road for nearly a mile (it turns to the right) to the parking lot at the bottom. Scramble down the canyon on a maintained trail to the river and plunge into the black-rock pool at the bottom – you can’t see the springs until you’re nearly on top of them!

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From Truth or Consequences head southwest about 200 miles to Silver City, then take Hwy 180 north for another 44 miles to the Gila National Forest Ranger Station. The country’s first designated wilderness area, the Gila Wilderness, is also the largest roadless area in the USA outside Alaska. If you’re looking for isolated and undiscovered hot springs amid a brilliant tableau of wild mountains, remote canyons and millions of trees, the Gila is where to go. Our favorite series of hot springs in the forest are just a short hike up Middle Fork River from the forest ranger station. Backtrack towards Silver City when you’re finished, and take Rte 15 north for 39 miles to pet-friendly Gila Hot Springs Vacation Center. Your final swimming hole has been used by Native Americans for centuries. There is primitive camping by the springs, or you can shack up in one of the simple rooms. Either way, you’ll have a brilliant (and warm) view of southern New Mexico’s star-streaked sky from a mineral pool in the middle of nowhere. Now that’s a good ending.

Becca Blond

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Albuquerque, head north on I-25. Exit at Las Vegas and drive 5 miles north on Hwy 65 to Montezuma.

DO

Giggling Springs

Loved by locals for its superhot water, these private springs are just across the street from the best hotel in town. 575-829-9175; 40 Abouslemen Loop; per hr $15; 11am-5pm

Gila National Forest Ranger Station

The starting point for the trail to the Middle Fork hot springs pools. 575-539-2481; Hwy 180; 8am-4:30pm

Gila Hot Springs Vacation Center

Used by Native Americans since ancient times, these springs are in a pet-friendly resort. 575-536-9551; www.gilahotspringsranch.com; Hwy 15; pool admission $3, tent/RV sites $12/17, r from $50;

Jemez Springs Bath House

Have a healing soak in a private tub at this rustic Old Western bath house. 505-829-3303; www.jemezspringsbathhouse.com; 62 Jemez Springs Plaza; per hr $10-15; 10am-8pm

Montezuma Hot Spring Pool

This au-natural, community-maintained hot soaking pool is especially enchanting on a moonlit evening. 505-454-4200; Hwy 65, Montezuma; admission free; 5am-midnight

Ojo Caliente

Our favorite high-desert hot-springs escape. 800-222-9162; www.ojocalientespa.com; 50 Los Baños Dr; pool admission weekday/weekend/after 6pm $16/22/12, massages $50-125, wraps $10-90, facials from $50, luxury packages from $125

Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Resort & Spa

Santa Fe’s favorite Japanese spa welcomes doggies with custom-sized beds and bones! Humans get soaking tubs, massages and zen bedrooms. 505-982-9304; www.tenthousandwaves.com; 3451 Hyde Park Rd, Santa Fe; r $99-279;

Eat & Sleep

Laughing Lizard Inn

A great guesthouse with cozy rooms and an attached café (mains $5-11). 505-829-3108; www.thelaughinglizard.com; NM 4; r $49-64, ; restaurant 11am-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun, limited hr in winter

Plaza Hotel

Las Vegas’ most celebrated and historic lodging is also excellent value. 505-425-3591; www.plazahotel-nm.com; 230 Old Town Plaza, Las Vegas; r incl breakfast from $69

Riverbend Hot Springs

Dormitory-style accommodations in cabins, trailers and teepees. The hot spring tubs are spread along the river. 575-894-7625; www.riverbendhotsprings.com; 100 Austin St; dm/camping $24/20, r $40-100

Sierra Grande Lodge & Spa

Chakras align at this oasis. Guest rooms are luxe and tranquil and there’s a holistic spa. 575-894-6976; www.sierragrandelodge.com; 501 McAdoo St; r from $99

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.discovernewmexico.com/hotsprings/index.htm