Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [17]
You’ll bypass Granite Narrows, the narrowest point (76 feet) in the canyon, if you take the Deer Creek loop, continuing down about a dozen river miles to another favorite hike at Matkatamiba Canyon. Matkat’s beautifully curvaceous narrows with striated, rippling walls require a little stemming and scrambling to stay above the water at the bottom of the canyon, but it’s an easy hike that opens out onto a pavilion edged in green.
If you manage not to go ass over teakettle in Upset Rapid, the river will bring you to Havasu Canyon on the next day, where another hike beckons. Leading up to the famous travertine canyon and blue-green pools of the Havasupai Reservation, Havasu Creek meets the Colorado with warm, turquoise waters that beg for a swim.
Around day thirteen, a day of gentle drifting allows you to steel yourself for infamous Lava. As you approach, the terrifyingly thrilling maelstrom of Lava Falls Rapid will reveal itself with a roar before giving you the ride of your life – this is a crucial one to scout. After Lava, you can breathe easy. Take-outs at Whitmore Wash – the wash at river mile 187, where a trail leads up to the North Rim – will have you boarding a helicopter bound for the rim. Instead of jettisoning your river serenity into oblivion with an immediate return to Las Vegas, transition with a steak dinner and a down-home stay at slightly kitschy Bar 10 Ranch. You can while away a few days on the ranch, skeet shootin’, horseback riding and dancing before braving “civilization” again.
Wendy Yanagihara
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Rafting trips on the upper half of the Colorado put in at Lees Ferry, north of Flagstaff.
DO
River Outfitters
Grand Canyon River Outfitters Association (www.gcroa.org) is a good starting point, with listings for all 16 river concessionaires certified to run the Grand Canyon. Because prices for commercial trips vary significantly depending on the length of the trip, we haven’t listed prices; outfitters’ rates tend to be competitive.
Arizona Raft Adventures
Has run paddle, oar and motorized trips since 1965; offers trips of six to 16 days. 928-526-8200, 800-786-7238; www.azraft.com; 4050 E Huntington Dr, Flagstaff, AZ 86004
Canyon Explorations & Canyon Expeditions
Family-run, established in 1987, this business offers trips of six to 16 days on the river. 928-774-4559, 800-654-0723; www.canyonexplorations.com; PO Box 310, Flagstaff, AZ 86002
Canyoneers
Descended from the company originally founded by Norm Nevills, who led the first paying passengers down the Colorado. 928-526-0924, 800-525-0924; www.canyoneers.com; PO Box 2997, Flagstaff, AZ 86004
Grand Canyon Dories
One of the only companies running trips in traditional wooden dories, with trips from five to 19 days. 209-736-0805, 800-877-3679; www.oars.com/grandcanyon/dories.html; PO Box 216, Altaville, CA 95221
Hatch River Expeditions
Best known for its river-running family pedigree, Hatch is now most visible for its motorized raft trips. 928-355-2241, 800-856-8966; www.hatchriverexpeditions.com; HC 67 Box 35, Marble Canyon, AZ 86036
OARS
With trips from five to 15 days, this outfit is one of the most distinguished. 209-736-4677, 800-346-6277; www.oars.com; PO Box 67, Angels Camp, CA 95222
Outdoors Unlimited
Well respected and experienced, this company offers oar and paddle trips of five to 15 days. 928-526-2852, 800-637-7238; www.outdoorsunlimited.com; 6900 Townsend Winona Rd, Flagstaff, AZ 86004
EAT & SLEEP
Bright Angel Fountain
Should be your first stop after slogging up to the South Rim, for a well-earned, frosty chocolate milkshake. 928-638-2631; www.grandcanyonlodges.com; Grand Canyon Village, AZ; mains $5-10; 8am-8pm;
El Tovar Dining Room
A meal here or cocktail on the back porch is de rigueur. Rooms at the historic lodge are the best on the rim. 928-638-2631; www.grandcanyonlodges.com; Grand Canyon Village, AZ; lunch from $11, dinner $21-35; 6:30-11am, 11:30am-2pm &