Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [32]
After 14 miles, the road dead-ends at Monastery of Christ in the Desert. As you pull in and climb out of the car, you’ll notice that the sound of your voice offends the silence. Tip-toe through the lavender and sage, past cross after cross lining the stone path, toward the Japanese–New Mexican inspired monastery that emerges gently from the cliffs. The Chama River, which plays prominently in O’Keeffe’s work, flows alongside, and the monastery offers accommodation for folks of all religions. So set down your easel or your sketchpad, just as O’Keeffe might have done, and stay awhile. Only one room has a private bath, and guests join the monks for a communal silent breakfast. If you’d prefer more traditional lodging, a Southwest-style room or bosque-view casita at Abiquiu Inn is the perfect end to a day exploring O’Keeffe country.
While there’s a restaurant at Abiquiu Inn and down the road you’ll find a tiny pizza joint, it’s worth a 15-minute drive for one of the best meals in the region. Just north of Abiquiu, in the tiny oasis of El Rito, is the kind of restaurant that everybody hopes to stumble upon. Housed in a small adobe with a long portal overlooking an orchard, Walter’s Place serves home-cooked meals, including cheese made from its own goats’ milk, and green chile and piñon meatloaf. As the story goes, Walter Chappel, an art photographer, lived in the house with his partner who worked for O’Keeffe. Walter made his lunches, and one day O’Keeffe asked for a taste. She loved it, so Walter occasionally cooked for O’Keeffe and her friends in his home. Walter died in 2000, but his house was purchased, restored, and opened as a restaurant. So bring a bottle of wine and sit in the courtyard, much as O’Keeffe herself did not so very long ago.
Jennifer Denniston
* * *
DETOUR
While O’Keeffe called Abiquiu home, she often traveled to Taos, home to numerous writers and artists. Her paintings of the Taos Pueblo and the Rancho de Pueblo Church are some of her most famous images. Take Hwy 554 past El Rito, slice down and cross the Rio Grande, and continue to Taos on Hwy 68.
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
* * *
TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Santa Fe lies 63 miles north of Albuquerque on I-25.
DO
Dar al Islam Mosque
A traditional Islamic community welcomes visitors to its spectacular hillside mosque on weekdays. Call in advance to confirm. 505-685-4515; 342 County Rd 155, Abiquiu, NM; varied;
Georgia O’Keeffe Home & Studio Tour
The home and studio remain untouched since her death in 1986. Make reservations well in advance, or check for cancellations at the tour office. 505-685-4539; shuttle from Abiquiu Inn, Abiquiu, NM; 1hr tour $35-50; varied
Georgia O’Keeffe Museum
Dusty desert walls and natural light showcase O’Keeffe’s desert landscapes, abstract flowers and brilliant use of color. 505-946-1000; www.okeeffemuseum.org; 217 Johnson St, Santa Fe, NM; adult/child/NM resident $8/free/4; 10am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 8pm Fri;
Ghost Ranch
Site of O’Keeffe’s home, this 21,000-acre ranch offers two museums, hiking trails, guided tours of O’Keeffe landscape and workshops, as well as a variety of accommodations. 505-685-4333; www.ghostranch.org; Hwy 84, btwn Mile 225 & 226, Abiquiu, NM; 1hr tour $25; varied, closed Dec;
EAT
Bode’s General Merchandise
Everyone from artists to cowboys, farmers to tourists, stop for deli sandwiches, burritos, organic veggies, wine and more. 505-685-4422; Hwy 84, Mile 212, Abiquiu, NM; mains $12-17; 7am-7pm, with seasonal variations;
Walter’s Place
Tiny home with chickens and goats in the back, outdoor seating and eclectic home-cooking. Bring your own wine or beer. 505-581-4498; El Rito, NM; mains $12-17; 5-10pm Fri & Sat;
SLEEP
Abiquiu Inn
Handsome rooms surround a central courtyard and roomy casitas offer bosque views. 505-685-4378; www.abiquiuinn.com; 21120 Hwy