Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [35]
When you’ve explored Lincoln (it doesn’t take more than a few hours to wander around the museums), continue 12 miles west to Capitan. This small town on the edge of the million-acre Lincoln Forest proves the Byway isn’t all about Billy, even if it does bear his name. Fame is shared with another of America’s most famous legends, a black bear named Smokey. You’ve seen his likeness in state and national forests everywhere around the region. But did you know that Smokey the Bear was a real, live black bear cub, and not just a sketch summoned from some designer’s imagination? Once upon a time, he was found clinging to a tree, paws charred from a 17,000-acre forest fire in the Capitan Mountains. Smokey’s burns healed, and he moved to Washington, DC. Working from his new home at the National Zoo, Smokey became the poster bear for fire protection. After his death, Smokey’s body was returned to the New Mexican mountains. You can see the famous bear’s grave at the 3-acre Smokey Bear Historical State Park. The Smokey the Bear Stampede takes place every 4th of July and features a parade, a rodeo, cookouts and other festivities. The place also goes wild during Smokey the Bear Days, celebrated the first weekend in May. That festival includes a street dance, woodcarving contest, craft and antique car shows. Spend the night at the Smokey Bear Motel. The place offers tidy rooms with handmade wood furniture including rocking chairs. The motel has a restaurant, but when it’s open the Greenhouse Café is the best bet in town. The café, which attracts people living around the region, grows all its own herbs and lettuce, and does a fabulous steak smothered in mushrooms and garlic. Complete the loop back to Ruidoso on Hwy 48, which skirts the eastern edge of the million-acre Lincoln National Forest – this is the part of the drive that really rocks in fall when the leaves put on a spectacular color show. The Sacramento Mountain range to the west of the highway adds to the scenic allure. Keep an eye out for New Mexico’s highest peak, Sierra Blanca (11,997ft). There is an especially clear view from the highway around tiny Alto, 11 miles north of Ruidoso.
Becca Blond
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DETOUR
If you’re driving the byway solely for Billy, then you will want to make the 156-mile trek northeast from Ruidoso to Fort Sumner to visit the Kid’s grave. The Fort Sumner State Monument is 4 miles southeast of town and the place where Sheriff Pat Garret shot and killed Billy the Kid on July 14, 1881. The outlaw was just 21 years old. Billy’s grave is behind the Old Fort Sumner Museum in town. His tombstone is protected by an iron cage to keep ‘souvenir hunters’ from stealing it.
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Ruidoso is 185 miles southeast of Albuquerque. Take I-25 south to Hwy 380 E, which runs straight through Ruidoso.
DO
Anderson Freeman Visitor Center & Museum
Focuses on Native American history and the famous Lincoln County War in which Billy the Kid made his name. 575-653-4025; Hwy 380, Lincoln; admission $6; 8:30am-4:30pm
Benson Fine Art Gallery
No matter the medium – the gallery features everything from jewelry to sculpture – all the art has a Southwestern bent. 575-653-4081; www.bensonfineart.biz; Rte 13, San Patricio, NM; call for hours
Billy the Kid Interpretive Center
Dig up the dirt on Billy the Kid, and the byway named for him at this visitor center/museum next to the Hubbard Museum in Ruidoso Downs. 575-378-5318; US 70, Ruidoso Downs, NM; admission free; 10am-5pm Thu-Tue
Dowlin’s Mill
According to legend, Billy the Kid once hid out in a flour barrel at this working water mill, whether that’s myth or reality remains a mystery. 505-257-2811; 641 Sudderth Dr, Ruidoso, NM; admission free; call for hours
Hubbard Museum of the American West
Displays more than 10,000 Western artifacts, many paying homage to the working horse. 575-378-4142; www.hubbardmuseum.org; 841 Hwy 70 W, Ruidoso, NM; admission $6; 9am-5pm