Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [50]
Where I-17 starts turning into a scenic (albeit high-speed) drive through blasted mountains, about 100 miles north of Phoenix, stands Montezuma Castle National Monument, the ultimate must-see. The 1000-year-old Sinagua city carved into a cliff face looks like a rough-hewn castle in the air. Take the time to really let it sink in and imagine a thriving community up there.
Break on through to the other side with a Crossing Worlds tour to Hopi, Navajo and other Native American sacred sites in Sedona. Now more commonly known as a center of New Age, Native American tribes knew long ago that Sedona’s landscape is spiritually charged. The red-rock towers here glow in the sunset and look like they’re about to blast off – a stop in Sedona humbles even the skeptics.
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ASK A LOCAL
“What’s cool is that right in the middle of the desert, this inhospitable place, they [the Hohokams] had a whole system of canals and agriculture and were able to do so much. We know they had trade routes all the way down to Mexico. Why do I think they left? Martians (laughs).”
Brandon Protas, former Pueblo Grande Museum volunteer
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Cross back into the world of highways and finding a good radio station and continue on to Flagstaff, a fun college town set at about 7000ft. The nights are frosty here, but the beds are big and warm at Inn at 410. A few of the 10 rooms here have a Southwestern theme.
Power up on coffee the next morning in downtown Flagstaff for a visit to Museum of Northern Arizona. Three miles north of downtown, it’s in a stone building set in a pretty little pine grove. Don’t miss the collections of Hopi kachina dolls, native basketry and ceramics, and Navajo textiles.
From the museum, head back towards the center of Flagstaff to hit Hwy 89 north. Take that for 12 miles and turn right at the sign for Sunset Crater Volcano–Wupatki National Monuments. The visitor center for Wupatki National Monument is 21 miles from this junction, on a winding paved road that runs through rolling fields of wild grass. Some people are bored to tears by this drive, while others love it. Once here, though, you’re treated to the sight of freestanding pueblos that were built after Sunset Crater blew its top in the 11th century. With the snowcapped San Francisco Peaks looming behind the ancient dwellings, this is the most photogenic spot on the trip.
Next, head to Holbrook, 90 miles southeast of Flagstaff on the super-straight and none-too-exciting I-40 (and Route 66). On the way there, take in the wonder of Walnut Canyon, just outside of Flagstaff. Assuming the trail is open, you can get close-ups of 25 of the rooms carved into vertical limestone walls where the Sinagua people lived more than 900 years ago.
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DETOUR
When driving through the White Mountain Apache Reservation it’s worth a stop at Fort Apache Historic Park (www.wmat.nsn.us/fortapachepark.htm), just 4 miles south of Whiteriver. Walking tours, the Apache cultural center and museum, and exhibits on the soldiers who were stationed here during the “Apache Wars” bring alive the turbulent history of Arizona’s original tenants.
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Holbrook’s Navajo County Historical Museum is set inside the 1898 county courthouse, a charming heap of bricks with a still-working courtroom. The building doubles as the visitors center and hosts free Native American dances at 7pm in summer. Stay at the Wigwam Motel, a collection of faux teepees made of concrete that look straight out of the 1950s inside. It’s most decidedly not authentic, but still fun.
From here, it’s a 240-mile drive to Tucson through