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Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [59]

By Root 803 0
Located 66 miles north of Phoenix on I-17, it’s more of an experiment in urban planning than architecture. A work in progress since the 1970s, it’s the embodiment of Soleri’s idea to create communities in harmony with their natural surroundings. A mixture of sharply angled concrete buildings and domes that shade the work spaces, everything here except for the bright bronze ingots (soon to be melted and poured) has been faded by the sun to a crisp brown.

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ASK A LOCAL

“It’s such a new town that we have an incredible variety of modern architecture – everything from midcentury ranch houses to postmodernism to the latest earth-friendly designs. A lot of it’s inaccessible, unfortunately, behind gates and walls. Cruise the nice neighborhoods next to the mountain preserves. Not only will you get great views, but you’ll see some amazing private homes.”

David Proffitt, architectural journalist

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Return to Phoenix for a night at the Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa. With architecture inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright, take one of the thrice-weekly walking tours of the 1929 property that looks like the set of a movie about the early 1930s where cigar-chomping captains of industry chase ladies in gowns holding flutes of champagne. Harking back to an age when celebrities had more class than sass, Irving Berlin penned “White Christmas” in his suite and Marilyn Monroe splashed in the pool.

It’s true that Arizona’s notable buildings might have more going for them in the realm of ideas than aesthetics. But, when the human race is colonizing the galaxy on a Biosphere 2–inspired spaceship and living in Arcosanti-like cities to reduce our use of the ship’s resources, we’ll have Arizona’s architecture to thank.

Josh Krist


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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

Tucson is 115 miles south of Phoenix on I-10.

DO

Biosphere 2

The futuristic site is now a University of Arizona–run earth science research institute. 520-838-6200; www.b2science.org; 32540 S Biosphere Rd, Oracle; adult/child/senior $20/13/18; 9am-4pm

Burton Barr Central Library

Inspired by Monument Valley, it’s the crown jewel in Will Bruder’s repertoire. 602-262-4636; www.phoenixpubliclibrary.org; 1221 N Central Ave, Phoenix; 9am-9pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri-Sat, noon-6pm Sun

Cosanti

Show up in the morning if you want to watch the bells being poured. 480-948-6145; www.arcosanti.org; 6433 E Doubletree Ranch Rd, Scottsdale; donation appreciated; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun

Mystery Castle

Call ahead to make sure tours are still being offered. 602-268-1581; 800 E Mineral Rd, Phoenix; adult/child $5/3; 11am-4pm Thu-Sun Oct-May or by appointment

Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art

Another beautiful Bruder creation on the outside, cool contemporary art within. 480-874-4666; www.smoca.org; 7374 E 2nd St; adult/under 15/student $7/free/5; 10am-5pm Tue-Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-8pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun

Taliesin West

Still home to an architecture school and open to the public for guided tours. 480-860-2700; www.franklloydwright.org; 12621 Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd, Scottsdale; tours $27-60; 9am-4pm

EAT

AZ 88

A long-time favorite for cool martinis and hot people-watching. 480-994-5576; www.az88.com; 7353 Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale; mains from $8; 11:30am-12:30am Mon-Fri, 5pm-12:30am Sat & Sun

Canal at Southbridge

Substance meets style at this joint accented by velvety booths, a fashion runway and an audiovisual wall. 480-949-9000; www.canalaz.com; 7144 E Stetson Dr, Ste 250, Scottsdale; mains $11-28; 11am-midnight

SLEEP

Arcosanti

Rooms here should be booked in advance. There are week- and month-long seminars, a café, concerts and other events. 928-632-7135; www.arcosanti.org; Cordes Junction; r from $30, Sky Suite $100

Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa

Sign up for one of the thrice-weekly historic walking tours. 602-955-6600; www.arizonabiltmore.com; 2400 E Missouri Ave, Phoenix; r from $380

Hotel Valley Ho

Not only a fine example of midcentury modern design, but a centrally located and fun place to stay. 480-248-2000;

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