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Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [64]

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a huge amount for the local music scene, and the likes of Jimmy Eat World played gigs in her record stores long before they hit it big.

Get up close and personal with bigger draws (think Ani DiFranco, Smashmouth) at Celebrity Theatre. Imagine the intimacy of a small club with the amenities – easy parking, plenty of bartenders and toilets – of a large venue. The revolving stage gives every audience member face time with the stars. And no seat is more than 75ft from the stage, so it’s a short span between you and your idol. You might even be able to catch their eye if you yell loud enough.

Phoenix has its own Orpheum Theatre (no relation to Flagstaff’s venue), a beautifully restored Spanish Baroque building from 1929. Mainstays like Tom Waits test the pristine acoustics when they come through town, and the Phoenix Symphony plays here on a regular basis. Before the show or during intermission, sink into one of the overstuffed chairs near the bar fireplace.

If all this culture has made you hungry, head over to the Rhythm Room, where there’s a little barbecue shack in the parking lot that opens during shows. Bands plug in their amps nearly every night of the week at this rocking little bar, with a heavy emphasis on the blues. If there were an embassy of southern soul in Phoenix, this would be it.

After hopscotching through the musical scene in Phoenix, bunk for a night at one of the cheap national-brand hotels near Tempe’s Mill Ave, a lively if somewhat bland-looking strip of themed bars and chain restaurants.

The next day drive down to Tucson for more harmonics. Like the A-minor and E chords on a guitar, the places with the sweetest notes are right next to each other: the Rialto Theater and Club Congress. The Rialto used to have vaudeville acts slapsticking across its stage when it opened in 1920, but now the monsters of rock and hiphop do the honors, along with big names in folk, flamenco and blues.

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ARIZONA MUSICIANS OF NOTE

Jimmy Eat World (Mesa)

Meat Puppets (Sunnyslope, Tempe)

Alice Cooper (Phoenix, Paradise Valley)

Stevie Nicks (Paradise Valley, Sedona)

Gin Blossoms (Tempe)

CeCe Peniston (Phoenix)

Flotsam and Jetsam (Phoenix)

DJ Z-Trip (Phoenix)

Linda Ronstadt (Tucson)

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The dark and moody Club Congress books edgier rock – except when it’s club night and a DJ spins the record back and forth. The folks who run this place have a good ear for the best under-the-radar bands strumming their way across the land.

While it’s convenient to spend the night at retro, historic Hotel Congress, remember that with two live music clubs so close by, it can be a rambunctious scene. Those who prefer quiet should consider the Flamingo Hotel, a classic 1950s motel. Lots of movie stars slept here, including Elvis, who bunked in room 102 in his pre-jumpsuit days.

Josh Krist


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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

Phoenix is about 150 miles south of Flagstaff and 115 miles north of Tucson.

DO

Celebrity Theatre

A 2665-seat theater where no one is more than 75ft from the stage. Amenities galore sweeten the deal. 602-267-1600; www.celebritytheatre.com; 440 N 32nd St, Phoenix; tickets from $25

Club Congress

Good pours and an eclectic musical line-up of regional buzz bands on the 1st floor of the Hotel Congress. 520-622-8848; 311 E Congress St, Tucson; covers $3-10

modified arts

This intimate performance and art space downtown feels like you’re watching a show at a record store (in a good way). 602-462-5516; www.modified.org; 407 E Roosevelt, Phoenix; shows $3-5

Orpheum Theater (Flagstaff)

A former vaudeville hall that now hosts top regional and national bands. 928-556-1580; www.orpheumpresents.com; 15 W Aspen St, Flagstaff; tickets from $15

Orpheum Theatre (Phoenix)

A splendid restored movie house downtown; used by high-brow touring shows and the symphony. 602-262-7272; 203 W Adams St, Phoenix; tickets from $50

Pine Mountain Amphitheatre

A finger-pickin’ treat of outdoor tunes, located south of Flagstaff off exit 337 on I-17.

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