Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [70]
It’s onward to Sedona, 30 miles north on Hwy 89 via a short, winding road. Famous for its red rocks and vortexes of positive energy, Sedona is an undeniable Arizona highlight. Propped up from a 500ft mesa, Sky Ranch Lodge gives visitors a terrific vantage point to view the town – and its sunsets.
When you come down to earth, ready for a drink, a unique winery excursion awaits. Sure you can drive to Alcantara Vineyards, but Sedona Wine Tours lets you float down the Verde River in an inflatable kayak to reach the grounds. Alcantara was the first winery along the river, and it’s quickly turning the Verde Valley into a winemaking hot spot. The 2005 chardonnay is a must try and buy. The tasting room is open daily, and on weekends the vineyard hosts tours; August and September are good times to come watch the harvest. And if paddling isn’t your thing, you can always stop at Alcantara on the road up from Jerome.
In Cornville Oak Creek Vineyards & Winery is also roughly halfway between Jerome and Sedona. A 4-acre (and growing) winery, the tasting room is open every day, and on weekends it’s possible to get some face time with owner Deb Wahl. Beer fans unite at Sedona’s Oak Creek Brewing Company. The microbrewery has been racking up medals at beer festivals for ages. The nutty brown ale packs a punch. Or go for the “Seven Dwarfs” tasting sampler of beers served in 5oz steins.
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DETOUR
About 80 miles northeast of Sonoita off I-10, Willcox is rising fast as another buzzworthy winemaking region. Sip bubbly at Coronado Vineyards (www.coronadovineyards.com) – their dolce veritas tells the story of the area’s specialty, white wines, oh-so-sweetly. The Willcox Chamber of Commerce & Agriculture (www.willcoxchamber.com) provides further details on the area.
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Flagstaff, a 30-mile drive from Sedona through pine trees and air that gets crisper by the minute as the altitude rises, is the perfect place to end our tour of Arizona wine and beer. After settling in at star-studded Hotel Monte Vista in the heart of the small, pedestrian-friendly downtown, traipse over to Flagstaff Brewing Company. Facing the famous Route 66, the brewery makes a dozen beers on site and has about 100 different types of whiskey. The Sasquatch Stout delivers; so named, one thinks, not for any hairy beasts in nearby woods but for the appearance of a stout lover as he or she makes their way home.
Scholarly imbibers know that Brix is oenophile heaven just by the name. A Brix meter is what vintners use to read the sugar content of as-yet-unharvested grapes. The wine menu here is superb, and Brix delivers on fine dining with seasonal, farm-fresh meals prepared with flair.
For a big selection of wines by the glass, head to Mountain Oasis in the center of downtown. During lunch, sit at one of the sidewalk tables and watch college students, vacationing families and locals on their muddy mountain bikes pass by.
No matter how you decide to spend your last night of the trip, make a toast: you’ve now tasted Arizona at its best. Robert Parker’s quip about Callaghan Vineyards applies to the whole of Arizona wine. “It’s definitely a secret even within Arizona, but we’re changing that as fast as we can,” says Sonoita’s Lightly.
Josh Krist
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Patagonia is off Hwy 82. Prescott, Jerome and Sedona are off Hwy 89. Flagstaff is 310 miles north of Sonoita.
DO
Alcantara Vineyards
The Verde Valley’s winemaking trendsetter. Tasting room is open daily and tours are run on weekends. 928-649-8463; www.alcantaravineyard.com; 7500 Alcantara Way, Verde Valley; tastings $8, tours $5; tastings 11am-5pm, tours 11:30am
Callaghan Vineyards
Located about 20 miles east of Patagonia: the critics that