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Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [75]

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Mesa. Yes, the airport here really does sit atop a flattened hill (making it America’s most scenic airport, according to locals). It’s near a New Age vortex of higher-powered energy, and airport officials in charge of the restaurant occasionally airlift fresh crab to the airport’s restaurant.

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ASK A LOCAL

“[Uptown Sedona] seems to be a bit of a New Age tourist trap. I think it’s good to just get out into the rocks and feel what the earth has to offer, which by itself is pretty impressive. The first weeks I was here I did what I can only describe as an emotional detox, and that was just from being present, not from any healing work.”

Paul Dunn, a New Zealander drawn to Sedona

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Because hikers don’t have to worry about the sharp descents and technical skills (or lack thereof) that can send mountain bikers helmet-over-heels into rockpiles, finding a sweet walking trail here is easy. Try Sedona Sports for recommendations; it also rents GPS units, walking sticks, outdoor-ready baby carriers and mountain bikes, and sells fishing licenses and gear for would-be Oak Creek anglers.

Just driving around the outskirts of Sedona is a good way to find lightly trodden hiking spots, but if serendipity isn’t your bag, any time is a good time to drive the winding 7-mile Red Rock Loop Rd, which is exactly what it sounds like. The drive is paved except for one short section and provides access into Red Rock State Park, which has a picnic area next to Oak Creek and six easy hiking trails.

Phew. You’ve earned the right to get that newly bronzed and toned body to Mago for a massage – choices include a mud hand massage, deep neck kneading and intestinal healing, all at decent prices. The massage space is hidden behind the 1st-floor café. This being Sedona, there are spiritual consultations on offer, too. Perhaps the most refreshing way to unwind is at Oak Creek Brewing Company. The microbrewery has been racking up medals at beer festivals for ages. The Hefeweizen beer has particularly restorative post-trail powers.

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SKY-HIGH

As you might have guessed, it’s easy to get high in Sedona – just ring up Northern Light Balloon Expeditions ( 928-282-2274; www.northernlightballoon.com). They’ll pick you up at your hotel and take you up and away at sunrise, when Sedona’s reds and golds are at their most vivid. After an hour aloft, they’ll return you to solid ground for a champagne breakfast.

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Continue with hiking and biking the next day. Or, if the muscles protest too much, saddle up for a different flavor of sore at M Diamond Ranch and let a horse do the heavy lifting. The Diamond is a working cattle ranch 14 miles south of town, and it takes small groups on trail rides through the rolling tan and red-rocked land.

For another magical experience, follow Hwy 89A into Oak Creek Canyon and check out Slide Rock State Park. Short trails ramble past an apple orchard and old farm equipment, but the park’s biggest draw are the natural rock slides that swoosh you down into the Oak Creek. This park is jam-packed in summer and traffic in the area can get brutal, so come early or late in the day to avoid the worst congestion.

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RED ROCK PASSES

To park in the forest, you’ll need to buy a Red Rock Pass (www.redrockcountry.org) from visitors centers, the ranger station or vending machines at some trailheads and picnic areas. Passes go on your dashboard and cost $5 per day or $15 per week. Applicable areas are plastered with signs, which you can ignore if stopping briefly for a photograph.

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Under ideal conditions Oak Creek is an enchantress, and will inspire those taken with her to sleep in her green embrace. The USFS oversees the camping spots along Oak Creek Canyon. Some are first-come, first-serve, and others accept reservations. Just be sure to arrive on Thursday night or very early on Friday morning to grab an unreserved spot, especially in the summer months.

If you want to sleep near the water of Oak Creek but don’t feel like camping, Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge, set 8

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