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Japanese Friendship Garden

Check the schedule for tea ceremony dates or to book a private ceremony for groups. 602-256-3204; www.japanesefriendshipgarden.org; 1125 N 3rd Ave, Phoenix; adult/child $5/free; 10am-3pm Tue-Sun Sep-May

Museum of Northern Arizona

The premier museum in the northern half of the state is set 3 miles north of downtown Flagstaff. 928-774-5213; www.musnaz.org; 3101 N Fort Valley Rd, Flagstaff; adult/teen/student/senior $7/4/5/6; 9am-5pm

Sharlot Hall Museum

Restored buildings include an old schoolhouse and a governor’s residence. 928-445-3122; www.sharlot.org; 415 W Gurley St, Prescott; adult/child $5/free; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun

EAT

Arcadia Farms Café

Uses only organic ingredients for its menu of salads, soups and sandwiches – all with Southwestern zing. 602-251-0204; www.arcadiafarmscafe.com; 2301 N Central Ave, Phoenix; mains $11-15; 9:30am-3pm

Pho Bang

A slice of Vietnam in a not-so-pretty part of Phoenix; service and decor are only OK, but the food is as authentic as it gets. 602-433-9440; 1702 W Camelback Rd, Phoenix; mains $5-8; 10am-9pm

SLEEP

Arizona Inn

Built by Isabella Greenway, Arizona’s first congresswoman and a close friend of Eleanor Roosevelt’s. The grand old lady still impresses. 520-325-1541; www.arizonainn.com; 2200 E Elm St, Tucson; r $205-550

Bisbee Grand Hotel

Choose your own thematic adventure in one of the six suites in this restored 1906 building. 520-432-5900; www.bisbeegrandhotel.com; 61 Main St, Bisbee; r $79-175

Hassayampa Inn

It lives up to its mission of melding yesteryear’s charm with modern amenities. Breakfast included. 928-778-9434; www.hassayampainn.com; 122 E Gurley St, Prescott; r $150-250

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.arizonaguide.com

www.discoverbisbee.com

LINK YOUR TRIP www.lonelyplanet.com/trip-planner

TRIP

6 Gunfighters & Gold Miners

16 Cowboy Time

21 Southern Desert Wanderings

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Return to beginning of chapter

Flagstaff’s Northern Playground

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WHY GO Skiing in winter? Yep. Rock climbing, hiking and killer mountain biking in summer? Check, check and check. Flagstaff has you covered season by season. The San Francisco Peaks just north of town are action central – strap in for a downhill ride where the pine trees whoosh by in a green blur.

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TIME

3 – 5 days

DISTANCE

60 miles

BEST TIME TO GO

Apr – Sep

START

Flagstaff, AZ

END

Flagstaff, AZ

ALSO GOOD FOR

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The 20-mile radius around Flagstaff is Arizona’s playground. Come summer, locals in the hot southern half of the state escape to the cooler altitudes here. In winter, many a Phoenix-area resident has lived the dream of swimming in the morning and schussing down snowy slopes in the afternoon.

No matter what the season, you’ll need to set up base camp first. Loads of chain hotels and motels spread out along Route 66, but there’s enough low-cost quirk within walking distance of downtown that it’s a shame to depend on a car during such a sporty vacation. Flagstaff’s two hostels are just south of the train tracks, a maximum 10-minute walk from downtown eating and drinking. Global adventurers of all ages are welcome at Grand Canyon International Hostel. There’s a laundry and kitchen on site, and staff can set up the carless (or people who want a break from driving) on well-priced Grand Canyon and Sedona tours. The hostel’s sister property, Dubeau Hostel, adds a jukebox, pool tables and foosball to the mix, and attracts a lively crowd. Book in advance to get one of the spartan but comfy-enough private rooms.

Both of the hostels sit mercifully close to Hip, an inexpensive, super-friendly vegetarian restaurant. How they make the vegan enchilada (no meat, no cheese) so flavorsome boggles the mind, but it’s so good you might just order seconds.

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ASK A LOCAL

“The hike to the top of Humphries is supercool – and there’s a back way into the mountain: the volcano basin. It’s the only