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Arizona, New Mexico & the Grand Canyon Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Aaron Anderson [87]

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features, panoramic viewpoints and hiking trailheads. To get here from Las Vegas, take I-15 south to Hwy 160 or Charleston Blvd west to Hwy 159, either about a 20-mile drive.

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Did you know that this artificial desert oasis also has a greener, more eco-friendly side? The immense Springs Preserve is planted on the site of the once-bubbling springs that gave Las Vegas its Spanish name, “the meadows.” It weaves together cultural and natural history in the OriGen Experience, then imagines a more sustainable future for Nevada at the Desert Living Center, with xeriscaped gardens and interpretive walking trails outside. Back on the Strip, Mandalay Bay’s Shark Reef has some of the world’s last remaining golden crocodiles. Go on a behind-the-scenes tour of this walk-through aquarium to find out more about species-conservation efforts. Or if history rocks your world, delve into the Cold War era at the Smithsonian-affiliated Atomic Testing Museum, when monthly above-ground atomic blasts shattered casino windows as mushroom clouds rose on the horizon, and the city even crowned a “Miss Atomic Bomb” beauty queen.

No matter how many of Las Vegas’ multiple personalities you flirt with – kitschy, extravagant, modern, racy, retro, arty or indie – don’t leave town without trying the classic stuff. Plug a few bucks into a slot machine. Catch a stage show, whether it’s a chintzy showgirl revue or an all-star production in the ever-expanding Cirque du Soleil galaxy. Stuff yourself at an all-you-can-eat buffet at a luxury casino hotel, or feast at a steakhouse with all the trimmings, of which there are dozens on the Strip (though honestly, we’re just as happy with an Angus burger, sweet-potato fries and a liqueur-spiked milkshake from BLT Burger). Just don’t take this city too seriously – or you’ll miss out on all the fun.

Sara Benson


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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Albuquerque, take I-40 west to Kingman, then US Hwy 93 north; from Phoenix, take US Hwy 60 northwest to I-40.

DO

Atomic Testing Museum

Buy your tickets for this engaging multimedia museum at the replica Nevada Test Site guard station. 702-794-5161; www.atomictestingmuseum.org; 755 E Flamingo Rd, Las Vegas; adult/child $12/9; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun;

Bellagio

The Italianate resort’s faux Lake Como and choreographed fountains are an absurdist antithesis of desert life. 702-693-7111; www.bellagio.com; 3600 Las Vegas Blvd S; admission free; fountain shows 3pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun

Binion’s

When the ex-Horseshoe opened in 1951, Texas gambler Benny Binion transformed Fremont St from a row of sawdust gambling halls into classy carpet joints. 702-382-1600; www.binions.com; 128 E Fremont St; admission free; 24hr

Circus Circus

On the Midway you’ll find carnival games and circus acts galore. 702-734-0410; www.circuscircus.com; 2880 Las Vegas Blvd S; admission free; shows every 30min 11am-midnight;

Cirque du Soleil

Catch the troupe’s signature aerial acrobats at various casino hotels around town. www.cirquedusoleil.com; admission $60-150; various locations; hschedules vary

Fremont Street Experience

Streaking right down the middle of downtown’s historic “Glitter Gulch.” 702-678-5600; www.vegasexperience.com; Fremont St, btwn Main St & Las Vegas Blvd; admission free; shows hourly dusk-midnight

Imperial Palace

Celebrity impersonators jump up from the blackjack tables to show off their song-and-dance skills. 702-731-3311; www.imperialpalace.com; admission free; 3535 Las Vegas Blvd S; shows every 30 min noon-4am

Liberace Museum

Connoisseurs of kitschy celebrity shrines, don’t miss this memorial to ‘Mr Showmanship.’ 702-798-5595; www.liberace.org; 1775 E Tropicana Ave; adult/child $15/10; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-4pm Sun, guided tours 11am Tue-Sat & 2pm Tue-Sun

Mirage

When the volcano erupts, it inevitably brings traffic to a screeching halt. 702-791-7111; www.mirage.com; 3400 Las Vegas Blvd S; admission free; shows hourly 8pm-midnight, from 6pm/7pm in winter/spring

Paris Las Vegas

Gustave

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