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in fact—it shares much in common with its competitor, from the size of the space to a similar menu of well-executed local classics. The two differ primarily in personality, and on that measure we prefer Lou Pistou, a quintessential mom-and-pop bistro. Michel takes care of the cooking by himself in the small, fully open kitchen, always looking calm and collected in an apron-draped T-shirt while he manages a dozen tasks simultaneously. Isabelle, whose hair is so red she seems to be on fire, handles the front of the house alone with boundless energy. They love what they do and it makes you love them and their food.

Cheryl starts with an arugula salad, which Isabelle tosses at the table with hefty chunks of Parmesan and balsamic vinaigrette. Bill has grilled red bell peppers, topped with chopped garlic. When Isabelle brings the plate to the table, she hands him a can of olive oil to pour over the appetizer to taste. We both follow up with daube and pasta, but in two different preparations, with Bill’s beef served over tagliatelle and Cheryl’s stuffed in ravioli. For dessert, we opt for a lemon tart and a honey-rich nougat glacé, full of pistachios and candied fruit. It’s all superlative, on the same level of quality and delight as our dinner at La Merenda. Incredibly, the bill is exactly the same in both places, ¤76 for three courses each and a bottle of wine.

In the morning, after a long gander at our view, we linger over breakfast, since it’s going to be our last meal in town. Our hotel sets out a cold buffet daily worthy of indulgence. The baguettes, croissants, and pain au chocolat excel, as do the selections of French cheeses and charcuterie. Bill dives into the bowl of hard-boiled eggs, while Cheryl favors the quiche and yogurt, both of us leaving ample room to wrap up with fresh fruit salad. After another walk through Old Nice and a shower, it’s time to head to the airport.

Our taxi driver turns out to be a talkative young woman. She asks about our stay and Bill says we’ve had a wonderful visit, enjoying the food in particular. Cheryl tells her about our meals, and the driver tells us about her mother’s cooking, bringing us to mutual agreement about the culinary bounty. Then when she pauses at a red light, she turns and looks at us seriously to say, in a typically feisty Nice way, “It’s not like this in northern France, you know. Parisians understand nothing about olive oil. Their food is so heavy, they might as well be eating the rocks on our beach.” An apt parting thought, true or not.

THE NITTY-GRITTY

LA RIBOTO DE TAVEN

www.riboto-de-taven.fr

Les Baux de Provence

33-4-90-54-34-23

fax 33-4-90-54-38-88

Worth a detour from a different continent.

FRENCH-WORD-A-DAY

www.french-word-a-day.com

CASTELAS HUILE D’OLIVE

www.castelas.com

Les Baux de Provence

Available in the United States from

www.zingermans.com and other online

retailers.

AUBERGE LA PASTOURELLO

Saint-Martin-de-Crau

33-4-90-47-40-44

fax 33-4-90-47-06-43

lunch and dinner

HÔTEL LA PÉROUSE

www.hotel-la-perouse.com

11 quai Rauba-Capeu, Nice

33-4-93-62-34-63

fax 33-4-93-62-59-41

Great location and grand views from

some of the rooms.

LA MERENDA

4 rue Raoul Bosio, Nice

lunch and dinner (reservations usually

necessary, but no phone or fax)

CHEZ FREDDY

cours Saleya, Nice

lunch and dinner

(reservations not necessary)

LOU PISTOU

4 rue Raoul Bosio, Nice

33-4-93-62-21-82

lunch and dinner

Beef Daube

Serve with broad flat egg noodles, other pasta, polenta, or simple boiled potatoes.

SERVES 8

Marinade

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and sliced into rounds

1 whole head of garlic, cut in half horizontally

1 bottle full-bodied tannic red wine, such as a Bandol

Large bouquet garni (about 6 large sprigs of parsley, 4 large sprigs of thyme, 1 bay leaf or sprig of rosemary or winter savory)

1 strip orange peel, about 3 inches long and ½ inch wide

2 cloves

2 teaspoons salt

4 pounds boneless beef chuck roast, or other similar beef for stewing