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By Root 876 0

similarly to ‘gang’) is often translated as ‘curry’, but it actually describes any dish with a lot of liquid and can thus refer to soups (such as gaang jèut) as well as the classic chilli paste–based curries such as gaang pèt (red curry) for which Thai cuisine is famous. The preparation of all chilli-based gaang begins with a krêu·ang gaang, created by mashing, pounding and grinding an array of fresh ingredients with a stone mortar and pestle to form an aromatic, extremely pungent-tasting and rather thick paste. Typical ingredients in a krêu·ang gaang include dried chilli, galingale (also known as Thai ginger), lemon grass, kaffir lime zest, shallots, garlic, gà·Ъì (shrimp paste) and salt. Dried spices such as coriander seeds and cumin are added for certain kinds of curries.

Most gaang are blended in a heated pan with coconut cream, to which the chef adds the rest of the ingredients (meat, poultry, seafood and/or vegetables), along with diluted coconut milk to further thin and flavour the gaang. Some recipes omit coconut milk entirely, such as gaang Ъàh (jungle curry), a fiery soup that combines a mixture of vegetables and meat. Another gaang that does not use coconut milk is gaang sôm (sour curry), made with dried chillies, shallots, garlic and Chinese key ground with salt and gà·Ъì. Cooked with tamarind juice and green papaya to create an overall tanginess, the result is a soupy, salty, sweet-and-sour ragout that most Westerners would never identify with the word ‘curry’.

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MUITO OBRIGADO

Try to imagine a Thai curry without the chillies, pàt tai without the peanuts, or papaya salad without the papaya. Many of the ingredients used on a daily basis by Thais are in fact relatively recent introductions, courtesy of European traders and missionaries. During the early 16th century, while Spanish and Portuguese explorers were first reaching the shores of Southeast Asia, expansion and discovery was taking place in the Americas. The Portuguese in particular were quick to seize the exciting new products coming from the New World and market them in the East, thus introducing modern-day Asian staples such as tomatoes, potatoes, corn, lettuce, cabbage, chillies, papaya, guava, pineapples, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, peanuts and tobacco.

Chillies in particular seem to have struck a chord with Thais, and are thought to have first arrived in Ayuthaya via the Portuguese around 1550. Before their arrival, the natives got their heat from bitter-hot herbs and roots such as ginger and pepper.

And not only did the Portuguese introduce some crucial ingredients, but also some enduring cooking techniques, particularly in the area of sweets. The bright yellow duck egg and syrup-based treats you see at many Thai markets are direct descendants of Portuguese desserts known as fios de ovos (‘egg threads’) and ovos moles. And in the area surrounding Bangkok’s Church of Santa Cruz, a former Portuguese enclave, you can still find kà·nǒm fà·ràng, a bun-like sweet baked over coals.

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A few extra seasonings such as bai má·gròot (kaffir lime leaves), bai hǒh·rá·pah (sweet basil leaves) and nám Ъlah (fish sauce) may be added to taste just before serving. Bangkok Thais like their curries a bit sweeter than other regions of Thailand.

Most Bangkokians eat curries only for breakfast or lunch, hence the average ráhn kôw gaang (rice-curry shop) is only open from 7am to 2pm. It is considered a bit odd to eat curries in the evening, and hence most restaurants (tourist restaurants excepted) don’t offer them on the evening menu.

To witness a truly amazing selection of curries, check out the vendors at the Or Tor Kor Market. In general, the best place to find authentic curries is at a ráhn kôw gaang such as Khrua Aroy Aroy, rather than a regular restaurant.

Hot & Tangy Salads

Standing right alongside gaang in terms of Thainess is the ubiquitous yam, a hot and tangy salad containing a blast of lime, chilli, fresh herbs and a choice of seafood, roast vegetables, noodles or meats. Bangkokians prize yam dishes so much that they are often eaten