Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [126]
For Bangkok’s ladies who lunch, Kuppa is something of a second home. Resembling an expansive living room, this place fancies itself as a ‘tea and coffee trader’ and the coffee is truly among the best in town. Thankfully the eats are just as good, in particular the spot-on Western-style pastries and sweets.
Kuppa is located a long walk down Soi 16; to find it, simply look for the Mercedes-laden car park peopled with loitering chauffeurs.
SUKHUMVIT PLAZA (KOREAN TOWN)
Map Korean $$$
cnr Soi 12 & Th Sukhumvit; 11am-midnight; Sukhumvit exit 3; Asok exit 2
Known around Bangkok as ‘Korean Town’, this multistorey complex is the city’s best destination for authentic ‘Seoul’ food. Local residents swear by Arirang ( 0 2653 0177; ground fl, Sukhumvit Plaza; dishes 120-350B), although there are a few cheaper places in the complex as well.
BO.LAN
Map Thai $$$
0 2260 2962; www.bolan.co.th; 42 Soi Rongnarong Phichai Songkhram, Soi 26, Th Sukhumvit; set meal 1500B; 6.30pm-midnight Tues-Fri, 11.30am-3pm & 6.30pm-midnight Sat & Sun; Phrom Phong exit 4
Upscale Thai is usually not worth the bill, but this chic new restaurant, started up by two former chefs of London’s Michelin-starred Nahm, is the exception. Bo and Dylan (Bo.lan, a play on words that also means ‘ancient’) take a scholarly approach to Thai cuisine, and perfectly executed set meals featuring full-flavoured regional Thai dishes are the results of this tuition.
RUEN MALLIKA
Map Thai $$$
0 2663 3211; www.ruenmallika.com; sub-soi off Soi 22, Th Sukhumvit; mains 150-450B; 11am-11pm; Sukhumvit exit 2; Asok exit 4
Thai restaurateurs have tourists figured out: convert an old teak house into a restaurant and they will come, regardless of the food. Ruen Mallika ups the ante by offering exquisite dishes, like dizzyingly spicy nám prík (a thick dipping sauce with vegetables and herbs) and soulful chicken wrapped in banana leaves. The surrounding garden supplies the ingredients for the deep-fried flower dish, a house speciality.
The restaurant is a little tricky to find; approach from Soi 22 off Th Ratchadapisek.
BOURBON ST BAR & RESTAURANT
Map American $$
0 2259 0328; www.bourbonstbkk.com; 29/4-6 Soi 22, Th Sukhumvit; mains 150-495B; 7am-1am; Phrom Phong exit 6
Although the ‘spicy’ reputation of New Orleans cuisine will probably make most Thais chuckle, any restaurant run by a man who owns a crayfish farm, stuffs his own andouille and has written a cookbook on spicy food is obviously serious about eats. Stop by on Monday, when the traditional New Orleans dinner of red beans and rice is served buffet-style.
NASIR AL-MASRI
Map Egyptian $$
0 2253 5582; 4/6 Soi 3/1, Th Sukhumvit; mains 65-350B; 8am-5am; Nana exit 1
Part restaurant, part shrine to the glories of stainless-steel furnishings, this popular Egyptian joint simply can’t be missed. This is Muslim food, with the emphasis on meat, meat and more meat, but the kitchen also knocks off some brilliant veggie mezze as well. Enhance your postprandial digestion and catch up on the Arabic-language TV news with a puff on the hookah in the super-casual smoking room upstairs.
SPRING
Map International $$
0 2392 2747; 199 Soi Promsri, Soi 39, Th Sukhumvit; mains 140-350B; 11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; Phrom Phong exit 3
The expansive lawn of this smartly reconverted ’70s-era house is probably the only chance you’ll ever have to witness Bangkok’s fair and beautiful willingly exposing themselves to the elements. The pan-Asian cuisine can be hit and miss, but the desserts, with names like Better Than Sex, are as almost good as they sound.
MOKKORI
Map Japanese $$
0 2392 0811; 8/3 Soi 55 (Thong Lor), Th Sukhumvit; mains 70-130B; 11am-midnight; Thong Lo exit 3
You know you’re in the right place if, upon entering this restaurant, the staff drop everything they’re doing and scream at you. Tiny Mokkori serves Japanese-style ramen in a resoundingly authentic setting, and many agree it does the best bowl in town. In addition to noodles, be sure to order the wonderfully simple snack of cucumber chunks served with