Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [140]
Although it’s not exactly a smoky den filled with finger-snapping hep cats, every night the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit’s deceptively bland hotel lounge transforms into one of the city’s best venues for live jazz. Check ahead of time to see which sax master or hide hitter is currently in town.
OVERTONE MUSIC CAVE
Map Bar
0 2203 0423; www.overtone.tv; 29/70-72 Royal City Ave (RCA), off Th Phra Ram IX, Greater Bangkok; 8pm-2am Wed-Sun; Phra Ram 9 exit 3 & taxi
One of Bangkok’s premier rock venues, this place has hosted the likes of Jimmy Page and the occasional international touring act. Overtone is decorated with Thai and international rock paraphernalia, boasts a great sound system, and on Wednesday and Thursday nights hosts a high-quality open-mic session, and on Sundays, a blues jam.
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NIGHTLIFE BIOLOGIST
Like other complicated ecosystems, Bangkok’s nightlife can, to the untrained eye, appear wild and utterly lacking in order. Misconceptions, unsubstantiated sightings and anecdotal evidence about the inhabitants of this realm abound. But after years of intense research we’re proud to say that we’ve finally been able to divide these organisms into three distinct species: high-society, dèk naaou (trendy child) and low-society. The following are descriptions of these groups, and recommended places to observe them in their natural environs.
The hi-so types split their time between Bangkok and Europe and have pioneered Bangkok’s fascination with wine, London lounge, mid-century minimalism and international cuisine – the usual tastes of the rich and famous. You’ll find them perched at Nest (see boxed text, Click here) or nodding to live jazz at Diplomat Bar.
Younger and more fashion-fearless are dèk naaou, Bangkok’s indie kids. Dèk naaou on a budget gravitate towards cheaper Banglamphu pubs such as Sripoom Espresso Bar or Lollipop, while those with the means part ways with their baht at downtown bars and clubs such as Nang Len or Slim/Flix.
At the bottom of the feeding chain are the lo-sos, the ordinary middle class who prefer Thai rock to international electronica and drink whisky sets instead of gin and tonics. Lat Phrao, Victory Monument and other suburban neighbourhoods are where the ‘real’ Thais live and party. Places like Tawan Daeng German Brewhouse (below), Coco Walk and Raintree (below) attract regular Thais doing regular Thai things.
Foreigners are somehow exempt from this spectrum and can be found virtually anywhere, from trendy dens such as the Barbican or Opera Riserva Winetheque, to quirky local boozers such as Shades of Retro or Happy Monday, and fun dives such as Wong’s Place or Cheap Charlie’s.
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PARKING TOYS
Map Bar
0 2907 2228; 17/22 Soi Mayalap, Kaset-Navamin Hwy, Greater Bangkok; 6pm-1am; Mo Chit exit 3 & taxi
If you’re willing to make the long schlep north of town, this bizarrely named bar is quite possibly Bangkok’s best-kept live-music secret. A rambling hall decked out with vintage furniture, Parking Toys hosts an eclectic revolving cast of fun bands ranging in genre from acoustic/classical ensembles to electro-funk jam acts.
To get here, hop in a taxi from Mo Chit BTS station and ask the driver to take you to Th Kaset-Navamin (also locally known as the sên đàt mài). Turn right at the Kaset intersection and continue until you pass the second stop light. Keep an eye out for the Heineken sign immediately on your left.
RAINTREE
Map Bar/Restaurant
0 2245 7230; www.raintreepub.com; 116/63-64 Soi Ruam Mit, Th Rang Nam, Ratchathewi; 6pm-2am; Victory Monument exit 2
This atmospheric pub is one of the few remaining places in town to hear pleng pêu·a chee·wít, Thai folk music with roots in the communist insurgency of the 1960s and ’70s. Buffalo skulls establish the design theme, and fittingly, soulful country-style Thai food is available.
ROCK PUB
Map Pub
0 2208 9227; www.therockpub-bangkok.com; 93/26-28 Th Phayathai, Siam Sq; 9pm-2am; Ratchathewi exit 2
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