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Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [152]

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art, via venerable training institutions such as Wat Pho, where centuries of tradition are maintained and passed on. Parlours offering Thai traditional massage are the most prevalent, typically with massage beds in the front window, colourful reflexology charts on the walls and foot or full-body massages selling for very reasonable rates.

But the world of Bangkok massage parlours can sometimes throw up unexpected scenarios. If you’re a woman you can rest easy in the knowledge that in the vast majority of cases you’ll get, with varying degrees of quality, the massage you asked for. For men, however, your full-body ‘oil massage’ might involve techniques you didn’t have in mind and which are definitely not on the curriculum at Wat Pho.

The tough part about this is that you never really know when you walk into a studio whether the massage is going to extend further up your inner thigh than is normally considered proper. It’s not as if the parlours actually advertise ‘happy endings 200B extra’. Indeed, many parlours actively discourage the practice, but masseuses are poorly paid and the opportunity to earn a bigger tip is often too hard to ignore.

So what should you do? Firstly, if you’re not actually looking for a ‘happy ending’ then start by avoiding massage parlours in Bangkok’s sleazier neighbourhoods – Nana, Sukhumvit near Soi Cowboy or around Patpong. You can also avoid trouble by walking past the shops with young, attractive women in miniskirts sitting outside and chorusing ‘Hello sir, massage?’ Look instead for the older, stronger-looking women, who normally give better massage. Parlours off the main path are often a good bet.

Once you’ve selected your parlour, choosing to not undress completely, which is normal for Thai massage – or wearing the unisex disposable knickers provided – will go some way toward deterring wandering hands. But it’s no guarantee. If your masseuse’s ‘innocent’ rubbing goes too far it will deliberately be left open to your interpretation; you’ll need to either ignore it both physically and verbally, or deal with it verbally.

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YOGA & PILATES

You might think Thais don’t need any extra relaxation, but the international yoga revolution has found many a believer in Bangkok. Yoga studios – and enormous accompanying billboards of smiling gurus – have popped up faster than mushrooms at a full-moon party. Expect to pay about 650B for a one-off class.

ABSOLUTE YOGA

Map

0 2252 4400; www.absoluteyogabangkok.com; 4th fl, Amarin Plaza, Th Ploenchit, Pathumwan; Chit Lom exit 6

This is the largest of Bangkok’s yoga-studio businesses, teaching Bikram hot yoga plus a host of other styles. Another popular branch is Thong Lor (Map; 0 2381 0697; 2nd fl, 55th Plaza, 55 Soi Thong Lor 2, Th Sukhumvit).

PILATES STUDIO

Map

0 2650 7797; www.pilatesbangkok.com; 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza, Th Ploenchit; Ploenchit exit 2

The first choice for those looking for pilates.

YOGA ELEMENTS STUDIO

Map

0 2655 5671; www.yogaelements.com; 23rd fl, Vanissa Bldg, 29 Th Chitlom; Chit Lom exit 5

Run by American Adrian Cox, who trained at Om in New York and teaches primarily vinyasa and ashtanga, this is the most respected studio in the entire city. The high-rise location helps you rise above it all, too.


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GYMS

Bangkok is well stocked with gyms, ranging in style from long-running open-air affairs in spaces such as Lumphini Park to ultramodern megagyms complete with high-tech equipment, bars selling exotic vegetable drinks and a roster of stunningly good-looking members and instructors. Most large hotels have gyms and swimming pools, as do a growing number of small hotels. If your hotel doesn’t, or you prefer the fashion-gym experience, both California Wow (www.californiawowx.com) and True Fitness (www.truefitness.co.th) have several branches in the Sukhumvit, Silom and Siam Square areas and offer pricey day memberships (about 700B). For something more old-school, the Ambassador Hotel Fitness Centre (Map; 0 2254 0444; www.amtel.co.th; Soi

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