Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [192]
Getting Around Săhm·lór and motorcycle taxis go anywhere in the town centre for 30B; you can also charter them for the whole day (from 300B). More common are sǒrng·tăa·ou, which cost 20B to 40B around town. Rabieng Rimnum Guest House rents out motorcycles (per day 250B).
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INFORMATION
TAT office ( 0 3240 2220; cnr Th Ratwithi & Keeleelataya; 8am-noon & 1.15-4pm) Set in a wát-like structure with random baroque chandeliers, this information office doesn’t have loads of brochures, but the smiley staff can help with directions and point you in the direction of cheap food and lodgings. There’s an internet cafe (Th Chisa-In; per hr 18B; 8am-10pm) in the centre of town, not far from Rabieng Rimnum Guest House.
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EATING
Wandering around Phetburi, one of the first things you notice is how good it smells. Even by Thai standards, there are loads of street vendors and small restaurants selling myriad dishes, often with a peculiarly local twist. Phetburi is especially famous for its desserts, many of which can claim a royal pedigree and obtain their sweet taste from the fruit of the sugar palms that dot the countryside around here. Two of the most famous sweets on offer include môr gaang (an egg and coconut-milk custard) and kà·nǒm đahn (bright-yellow steamed buns sweetened with sugar-palm kernels). The best place to sample these and other desserts is along the Thai sweets market (Th Phetkasem) directly north of Khao Wang. We’ve asked the locals for their tips and below are places with the best reputations in town.
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HAT CHAO SAMRAN
Lying 18km east of Phetburi, Hat Chao Samran is one of Thailand’s oldest beach resorts, dating back to the reign of Rama VI (King Vajiravudh; r 1910–25). While the Thailand of today certainly has more appealing beaches, it’s a pleasant enough place to laze your way through a day or two, punctuating your naps with cheap seafood binges. A recent resurgence in popularity has brought with it ‘boutique’-style bungalow accommodation. Blue Sky ( 0 3244 1399; www.blueskyresort.com; 5 Moo 2, Hat Chao Samran; bungalows 1800-4000B; ) offers cute bungalows & rooms overlooking the garden or the sea. When you can relax no more, stumble next door to the ramshackle Jaa Piak ( 0 3247 8496; dishes 50-280B; 9am-9pm), which serves all manner of seafood including a mean horseshoe crab–and-egg salad (yam kài maang dah tálair).
To reach Hat Chao Samran, hop on a sǒrng·tăa·ou (35 minutes; 30B) across from the clock tower near Wat Thaw, or ride a rented motorbike.
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The town features two lively night markets, one at Phetphaiboon Plaza (Th Bandai-It; dishes 20-60B; 4.30-11pm), and the night market (Th Rot Fai; dishes 20-60B; 4-11pm) near the Bangkok-bound bus stop.
Baan Muang Petch ( 0816 945 031; 20/2-3 Soi Sapsin 4; dishes 25-60B; 10am-9pm Tue-Sun) This well-situated coffee shop is an excellent place to refill on real coffee, iced or otherwise, and sweets between temple visits. Simple dishes and a great sunset view of Khao Wang are also available.
Khaao Chae Naang Ram ( 0848 018 395; Th Damnoen Kasem; dishes 20B; 8am-5pm) Kôw châa (camphor-scented chilled rice served with sweet/savoury titbits) is a dish associated with Phetburi, and this roadside stall in front of a noodle restaurant is considered one of the best places to try it (it’s an odd flavour and icy texture, but worth a go). There’s no English sign; look for the cart under the old blue awning).
Mondee ( 0816 971 768; Saphan Lamyai; dishes 25-100B; 10am-midnight) During the day, this cosy wooden shack beside the river serves kà