Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [196]
Getting Around Kanchanaburi is very accessible by bicycle; you can hire bikes along Th Mae Nam Khwae (per day 40B). For areas outside town, rent a motorcycle (per day 150B to 250B). Săhm·lór within the city, including to and from the bus and train stations, cost about 35B a trip. Regular sǒrng·tăa·ou (5B) cruise Th Saengchuto, but be careful you don’t accidentally charter one all for yourself.
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INFORMATION
TAT office ( 0 3451 1200; Th Saengchuto; 8.30am-4.30pm) This office provides a great provincial map with information about trips outside Kanchanaburi, as well as up-to-date bus and train schedules and numerous other brochures. It’s near the bus station.
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EATING
Keeree Tara Restaurant ( 0 3462 4093; Th Rong Hip Oi; dishes 60-180B; 11am-midnight) With stunning views over the river and bridge, this big, modern place serves delicious Thai food at very reasonable prices. We found the usual suspects – green curry and pàt tai – in excellent form here.
Floating restaurants (Th Song Khwae; dishes 80-200B; 6-11pm) Down on the river are several large floating restaurants where the quality of the food varies, but it’s hard not to enjoy the atmosphere.
Sitthisang Coffee Shop (Th Pak Phraek; coffee from 40B; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun) In an historic yellow-painted shophouse is this cafe and restaurant with friendly staff and real coffee. The building has been in the family for generations, and the young owner is happy to talk about its history.
Night market (Th Saengchuto; dishes 30-60B; 6-11pm) An expansive market featuring everything from Thai-Muslim nosh to pàt tai unfolds every night in front of the bus station.
One of the culinary trademarks of Kanchanaburi are the curry restaurants that sell a huge variety of local-style curries, soups and fried dishes – simply check under the lids and choose what looks good. Two that we found particularly good:
Kok Kaat ( 0 3451 2481; 211/1 Th Saengchuto; dishes 20-35B; 7am-3pm) This place stocks an astounding 39 dishes, displayed in rows of stainless-steel pots out front.
Jay Tiw ( 0815 264 487; Th Saengchuto; dishes 20-35B; 7am-3pm) A block away from Kok Kaat towards the city centre, Jay Tiw boasts only 19 dishes, but emphasises quality over quantity. To reach both restaurants, hop on any sǒrng·tăa·ou heading south along Th Saengchuto and ask to get off at săh·lah glahng jang·wàt (City Hall). The restaurants are more or less across the street – just look for the rows of stainless-steel pots.
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DRINKING
Much of Th Mae Nam Khwae is filled with bars, cafes and restaurants, and a stroll down the road is the best way to find one you’ll like. When we visited, Buddha Bar (Th Mae Nam Khwae; 5pm-late) was among the best of the small shophouse bars. Resort ( 0818 479 227; 318/2 Th Mae Nam Khwae; 6pm-midnight), a faux-colonial-era veranda bar, is a favourite for visiting Bangkokians and boasts a nightly live band and attractive outdoor seating.
Further south, opposite the floating restaurants, are a couple of bigger, noisier venues, including the imaginatively named Bar Beer and Rest Room (both Th Song Khwae; 5pm-late).
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SLEEPING
The most scenic places to stay are the floating guesthouses, but these are also the loudest, thanks to the nightly disco and karaoke barges. A pair of good earplugs and (quite) a few drinks will help block out the bass. Some places offer to collect guests from the train and bus stations for free.
Royal River Kwai Resort & Spa ( 0 3465 3297; www.royalriverkwairesort.com; Th Kanchanaburi-Sai Yok; d from 1850B; ) Royal River sports the global zen look and