Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [198]
The cool highlands around Khao Yai are also home to a nascent wine industry. These have been dubbed the ‘New Latitude’ wines because, at between 14 and 18 degrees north, they fall far outside the traditional wine-grape growing latitudes of between 30 and 50 degrees north or south of the equator. PB Valley Khao Yai Winery ( 0 3622 6415; www.khaoyaiwinery.com; 102 Moo 5, Phaya Yen, Pak Chong; tastings 150B, winery day tour incl meal 800B; 7.30am-4.30pm) and GranMonte ( 0819 232 007; www.granmonte.com; 52 Th Phansuk-Kud Khala) are among the wine makers managing to coax shiraz and chenin blanc grapes from the relatively tropical climate. The wines do seem to improve year by year, though they still have a way to go. GranMonte also has some appealing rooms overlooking the vineyards from 3550B.
The best time to visit the park is in the dry season (December to June), but during the rainy season river rafting and waterfall spotting will be more dramatic. Most guesthouses and lodges arrange jungle treks and rafting tours.
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TRANSPORT: KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK
Distance from Bangkok 196km
Direction Northeast
Travel Time Three hours
Bus From Bangkok’s Northern and Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit; 0 2936 2841-8; Map), take a bus to Pak Chong (ordinary/air-con 95/165B, three to four hours, every 30 minutes from 5am to 10pm). From Pak Chong, take a sǒrng·tăa·ou (20B, from 6am to 5pm) to the park entrance.
Hire Car For more freedom and a little Thai-driving adventure, rent a car (see Click here) and drive; it’s totally worth it.
Getting Around From the entrance gate it’s possible to charter a vehicle (400B) or flag a passing car for a ride to the visitors centre. Chartered transportation within the park is available via the visitors centre; however, hitchhiking is common.
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INFORMATION
The National Park, Wildlife & Plant Conservation Department website (www.dnp.go.th) has plenty of detail about the park, as does www.thaibirding.com.
Khao Yai Visitors Centre ( 0818 773 127 or 0 4429 7406; admission 400B; 8am-6pm) Pay your entrance fee and get topographical maps, hiking advice, and arrange a jungle guide or wildlife spotlighting tour at this centre within the park.
Sarika Nature Trips ( 0816 436 317) This small outfit based in Nakorn Nayok offers nature and wildlife-based tours of the national park and surrounding areas.
TAT Central Region Office 8 ( 0 3731 2282; tatnayok@tat.or.th; 182/88 Moo 1, Th Suwannason, Nakhon Nayok) Information on guides and tours in Khao Yai.
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EATING
In recent years, the area surrounding Khao Yai National Park has become a minor culinary destination, with cuisines ranging from upmarket Italian to Thai-Muslim. The towns that surround the park have lively night markets but if you don't have a car, you'll find restaurants within the park.
Dairy Home ( 0 4432 2230; Km 144, Th Mitraphab, Muak Lek; mains 50-100B; 9am-8pm) If a weekend of intense jungle exploring or wine tasting has left you with a need for Western eats, stop by this organic dairy for a country breakfast of homemade sausages, farm-fresh eggs and good coffee.
Khrua Khao Yai ( 0 4429 7138; Km 13.5, Th Thanarat, Pak Chong; mains 40-175B; 9am-8pm Sun-Thu, 9am-10pm Fri & Sat) This informal kitchen is enormously popular with Bangkokians because it serves an inspired repertoire of both Thai and fà·ràng dishes, including home-cured ham and marinated mushrooms that are so meat-like you’ll find yourself wondering what animal they came from.
Narknava ( 0819 247 091; www.narknavafarm.com; Km 8, Th Phansuk-Kud Khala, Pak Chong; mains 50-150B; 8am-7pm Tue-Sun) Muslim and even Middle Eastern fare are unexpected cuisines in this neck of the woods, but Narknava is an established favourite for its infamous chicken biryani – infamous, because at 100B it’s superexpensive by Thai standards. Unusually, the food is much better