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are used by Thais for short hops not worth paying the taxi flag fall for. For foreigners, however, these emphysema-inducing machines are part of the Bangkok experience, so despite the fact they overcharge outrageously and you can’t see anything due to the low roof, pretty much everyone takes a túk-túk at least once. It’s worth knowing, however, that túk-túk are notorious for taking little ‘detours’ to commission-paying gem and silk shops and massage parlours. En route to ‘special’ temples, you’ll meet ‘helpful’ locals who will steer you to even more rip-off opportunities. See Click here for more on these scams, and ignore anyone offering too-good-to-be-true 10B trips.

The vast majority of túk-túk drivers ask too much from tourists (expat fà·ràng never use them). Expect to be quoted a 100B fare, if not more, for even the shortest trip. Try bargaining them down to about 40B for a short trip, preferably at night when the pollution (hopefully) won’t be quite so bad. Once you’ve done it, you’ll find taxis are cheaper, cleaner, cooler and quieter.

DIRECTORY

* * *

BUSINESS HOURS

CHILDREN

CLIMATE

COURSES

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

DISCOUNT CARDS

ELECTRICITY

EMBASSIES

EMERGENCY

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

HEALTH

HOLIDAYS

INTERNET ACCESS

LEGAL MATTERS

MAPS

MEDICAL SERVICES

MONEY

NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES

ORGANISED TOURS

POST

RADIO

SAFETY

TAXES & REFUNDS

TELEPHONE

TIME

TOILETS

TOURIST INFORMATION

TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

VISAS

VOLUNTEERING

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

WORK

* * *

BUSINESS HOURS

Most government offices are open from 8.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday, but close from noon to 1pm for lunch. In recent years the government has pushed for a ‘no lunch closing’ policy – you might even see signs posted to this effect – but in reality government employees usually head for lunch at midday precisely and there’s a strong chance of disappointment if you expect to get anything done between noon and 1pm.

Regular bank hours in Bangkok are 8.30am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday, but several banks have special foreign-exchange offices that are open longer hours (generally from 8.30am to 8pm), including weekends in touristy areas. Note that all government offices and banks are closed on public holidays (see Click here).

Commercial businesses usually operate between 8.30am and 5pm Monday to Friday and sometimes Saturday morning as well. Larger shops usually open from 10am to 6.30pm or 7pm, but the big shopping centres are open later (until 9pm or 10pm). Smaller shops keep more variable hours and often open earlier and close later.

Hours for restaurants and cafes vary greatly. Some local Thai places open as early as 7am, while bigger places usually open around 10am and still others are open in the evenings only. Some close as early as 9pm and others stay open all night. Bars, by law, can’t open before 4pm and must close by 1am. This, however, seems to be as typically flexible as many Thai laws, and even moreso since the Democrats took power.

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CHILDREN

Thais love children and in many instances will shower attention on your offspring, who will find ready playmates among their Thai counterparts and a temporary nanny service at practically every stop. This means kids are welcome almost anywhere and you’ll rarely experience the sort of eye-rolling annoyance often seen in the West.

At a practical level, there are a few things worth knowing before you depart. Many hotels offer family deals, adjoining rooms and – in the midrange and above – cots, so enquire specifically. Car seats, on the other hand, are almost impossible to find, and even if you bring your own most taxis have no seatbelt in the back. Most parents just hold their child, though we always felt more comfortable keeping our daughter in her sling while travelling by taxi. Taxi drivers generally won’t temper their speed because you’re travelling with a child, so if need be don’t hesitate to tell them to cháh cháh (slow down). For moving by foot, slings are often more useful than prams as Bangkok sidewalks are rubbish.