Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [45]
Narrow Th Chetuphon divides the grounds in two, and it’s well worth entering from either this quiet lane or Th Sanam Chai to avoid the touts and tour groups of the main entrance on Th Thai Wang. You’ll come into the northern compound (the southern part is closed to the public), where the main bòht is constructed in Ayuthaya style and is strikingly more subdued than Wat Phra Kaew. Rama I’s remains are interred in the base of the presiding Buddha figure in the bòht.
The images on display in the four wíhăhn (sanctuaries) surrounding the main bòht are worth investigation. Particularly beautiful are the Phra Jinnarat and Phra Jinachi Buddhas in the western and southern chapels, both rescued from Sukhothai by relatives of Rama I. The galleries extending between the four chapels feature no fewer than 394 gilded Buddha images.
Encircling the main bòht is a low marble wall with 152 bas-reliefs depicting scenes from the Ramakian. You’ll recognise some of these figures when you exit the temple past the hawkers with mass-produced rubbings for sale; these are made from cement casts based on Wat Pho’s reliefs.
In the northwest corner of the site you’ll find Wat Pho’s main attraction, the enormous, tremendous Reclining Buddha. The 46m-long and 15m-high supine figure illustrates the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. It is made of plaster around a brick core and finished in gold leaf, which gives it a serene luminescence that keeps you looking, and looking again, from different angles. The 3m-high feet are a highlight, with mother-of-pearl inlay depicting 108 different auspicious láksànà (characteristics of a Buddha).
On the western side of the grounds a collection of four towering tiled stupas commemorates the first four Chakri kings. The surrounding wall was built on the orders of Rama IV (King Mongkut; r 1851–68), who for reasons we can only speculate about decided he didn’t want any future kings joining the memorial. Note the square bell shape with distinct corners, a signature of Ratanakosin style. Wat Pho’s 91 smaller stupas include chedi (stupa) clusters containing the ashes of lesser royal descendants.
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TEMPLE ETIQUETTE
Buddhist monasteries (wáts) and temples are sacred places and should be treated with respect. You must remove your shoes as you enter any building – when you see empty shoes scattered around a doorway or threshold, this is your cue. At some temples, and especially at Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace grounds, dress rules are strictly enforced. If you’re wearing shorts or a sleeveless shirt you will not be allowed into the temple grounds – this applies to men and women. Long skirts and three-quarter length pants are not appropriate, either. If you’re flashing a bit too much calf or ankle, expect to be shown into a dressing room and issued with a sarong. Once suitably attired, you’ll be allowed in. For walking in the courtyard areas you are supposed to wear shoes with closed heels and toes. Officially, sandals and flip-flops are not permitted, though the guards are less zealous in their enforcement of this rule.
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Small Chinese-style rock gardens and hill islands interrupt the tiled courtyards providing shade, greenery and quirky decorations depicting daily life. Keep an eye out for the distinctive rockery festooned with figures of the hermit Khao Mor, who is credited with inventing yoga, in various healing positions. According to the tradition, a few good arm stretches should cure idleness.
If you’re hot and foot sore the air-conditioned massage pavilions near the east gate could be a welcome way to cool down while experiencing high quality and relatively inexpensive Thai massage.
LAK MEUANG
Map
0 2222 9876; cnr Th Sanamchai & Th Lak Meuang; admission free; 6.30am-6.30pm; air-con 508 & 511, ordinary 15, 47, 53 & 59; Tha Chang (N9)
What would otherwise be an uninteresting mileage marker has both religious and historical significance in Thailand. Lak Meuang is the city shrine, a wooden pillar erected by Rama I in 1782 to represent