Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [51]
2 Wat Mahathat
Continue north through the campus and left to get back to Th Maharat. Turn right on Th Maharat and wander past the nylon mats and tables displaying amulets, herbal apothecaries and traditional medicines that, on one recent visit, included the disturbing sight of a full tiger skin. On your right is Wat Mahathat (left), Thailand’s most respected Buddhist university.
3 Amulet Market
Turn into the narrow alley immediately after Trok Mahathat to the amulet market, a warren of vendors selling prá krêuang (religious amulets) representing various Hindu and Buddhist deities.
4 Food Vendors
Find the riverside lane within the market and head north (keep the river on your left). This leads past more amulet stalls and stores selling graduation gowns and Buddha images. Several small kitchens with seating overlooking the river are ideal for a cheap, delicious Thai lunch.
5 Tarot Readers
At the northern end of the market you’ll emerge at Tha Phra Chan. In a lane just off the entry to the pier are several tarot card readers, some of whom speak English.
6 Sanam Luang
Take Th Phra Chan east past Thammasat University to the vast royal field of Sanam Luang. Turn right along Th Na Phra That and walk to the end.
* * *
WALK FACTS
Start Tha Chang (river ferry N9)
End Tha Tien (river ferry N8)
Distance 6km to 7.5km
Duration 3½ to six hours, depending on how much time you spend looking, eating, drinking and getting massaged
Fuel stops Trok Nakhon food vendors, Natthaphorn, Rub Aroon and The Deck
* * *
7 & 8 Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace
Cross Th Na Phra Lan and turn left to the official tourist entrance to Thailand’s holiest temple, Wat Phra Kaew, and the formal royal residence, the Grand Palace. See Click here for details on dress restrictions.
9 Lak Meuang
Exiting via the same gate, take a right and cross Th Ratchadamnoen Nai for a quick spin past the Lak Meuang (City Pillar;).
10 Natthaphorn
From Lak Meuang walk east along Th Lak Meuang to Khlong Lawt, cross on the footbridge, turn right, cross the street and turn left into Th Phraeng Phuthon (there’s no English sign; look for the lunchtime kitchen with a dozen dishes on the corner). Turn right at the T-junction and then left and you’re now in the village-like setting of Th Phraeng Phuthon. On the corner facing the park is Natthaphorn, Bangkok’s most famous coconut ice-cream shop and a great place to cool off.
11 & 12 Pig Shrine & Saranrom Royal Garden
From Nattaphorn, walk south and turn right on Th Bamrung Muang, cross back over the klorng and turn left on Th Ratchini. You’ll pass the scrappy Queen Patcharinthira shrine, a brass pig built in honour of the queen’s 50th birthday in 1913 (she was born in the lunar year of the pig). Continue and enter Saranrom Royal Garden for a view of Thais exercising and chilling.
13 Wat Pho
Exit the garden on Th Chareon Krung, turn right and cross over to the left and you’re at the east entrance to Wat Pho, near the massage studios. Meander through the grounds on your way to the massive Reclining Buddha.
Options, options
OK, so now you have to decide. Depending on the time, and levels of interest, energy, hunger and thirst, you can finish the walk in various ways. Get your timing right and you can do some or all of the following activities and still watch the sun set behind Wat Arun with a cold drink and freshly de-knotted body. Remember that the last ferry leaves Tha Tien soon after 7pm, and taxis around here are notorious for refusing to put the meter on – if you need one, insist on the meter.
14 Rub Aroon
Just want to sit with a coffee for a bit? Exit Wat Pho beside the Reclining Buddha, turn left on Th Maharat and settle into Rub Aroon, a friendly cafe serving Thai standards and fresh fruit drinks.
15 Wat Arun
Walk to Tha Tien (N8) and take the regular cross-river ferry to Wat Arun (opposite) to see its striking Hindu-Khmer