Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [70]
Th Yaowarat (Map) A hundred years ago this was a poultry farm; now it is gold street, the biggest trading centre of the precious metal in the country. Shops are always painted like the interior of a Chinese shrine: blood red and decorated with well-groomed toy dogs that look down on the neighbourhood’s fat soi dogs in every way except literally. Near the intersection of Th Ratchawong, stores shift to Chinese and Singaporean tourists’ tastes: dried fruit and nuts, chintzy talismans and accoutrements for Chinese festivals. The multistorey buildings around here were some of Bangkok’s first skyscrapers and a source of wonder for the local people. Bangkok’s skyline has grown and grown, but this area retains a few Chinese apothecaries, smelling of wood bark and ancient secrets.
Th Mittraphan (Map) Sign makers branch off Wong Wian 22 Karakada, near Wat Traimit and the Golden Buddha; Thai and Roman letters are typically cut out by a hand-guided lathe placed prominently beside the pavement.
Th Santiphap (Map) Car parts and other automotive gear make this the place for kicking tyres.
Sampeng Lane (Map; Soi Wanit 1) Plastic cuteness in bulk, from pencil cases to pens, stuffed animals, hair flotsam and enough bling to kit out a rappers convention, all hang out near the eastern end of the alley. Closer to Phahurat, the main merchandise changes to bolts of fabric from India.
Soi 16 (Map; Trok Itsaranuphap) This ancient fresh market splays along the cramped alley between Th Yaowarat and Th Charoen Krung. It’s fascinating, but anyone who suffers even the mildest form of claustrophobia should not contemplate it. North of Th Charoen Krung funerary items for ritual burnings dominate the open-air stalls.
* * *
HOLY ROSARY CHURCH
Map
0 2266 4849; 1318 Th Yotha, near River City; Mass Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Sun 8am, 10am & 7.30pm; Marine Department (N4)
Portuguese seafarers were among the first Europeans to establish diplomatic ties with Siam and their influence in the kingdom was rewarded with prime riverside real estate. When a Portuguese contingent moved across the river to the present-day Talat Noi district of Chinatown in 1787, they were given this piece of land and built the Holy Rosary Church, known in Thai as Wat Kalawan, from the Portuguese ‘Calvario’. Over the years the Portuguese community dispersed and the church fell into disrepair. However, Vietnamese and Cambodian Catholics displaced by the Indochina wars adopted it and together with Chinese speakers now constitute much of the parish. Of particular note are the splendid Romanesque stained-glass windows, gilded ceilings and a Christ statue that is carried through the streets during Easter celebrations.
Return to beginning of chapter
CHINATOWN WANDER
Walking Tour
Chinatown is packed – every inch of it is used to make a living. From the fresh-food market festooned with carcasses to alleys full of endless bling, the commerce never rests. This walking tour plunges into the claustrophobic alleys of chaotic dealing for which the district is famous, explores some quiet hidden lanes and visits the touristy but impressive Golden Buddha before finishing in the relatively peaceful soi of Talat Noi. Be prepared for crowds and smells, and bring your camera. Depending on where you want to go afterwards and what time it is (the ferries stop soon after 7pm), finish either at the Marine Department river ferry, Hua Lamphong Metro (a 10-minute walk back from Talat Noi), or continue wandering south to River City and the hotel ferries.
1 Phahurat (Little