Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [81]
Metro Silom & Lumphini
Skytrain Sala Daeng, Chong Nonsi, Surasak & Saphan Taksin
Th Silom is busy at almost every hour and the Skytrain is almost always a better alternative for reaching destinations on this street. Traffic moves more regularly on Th Sathon, though U-turn possibilities are rare.
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ON THE RIVER
Getting out on Mae Nam Chao Phraya is a great way to escape the Bangkok traffic and experience the city’s maritime past. So it’s fortunate that the city’s riverside hotels also have some of the most attractive boats shuttling along the river. In most cases these free services run from Tha Sathon (Central Pier) and River City to their mother hotel, departing every 10 or 15 minutes. There’s no squeeze, no charge and a uniformed crew to help you on and off. The Millennium Hilton boat has arguably the most polite crew and runs the most useful route. Services usually finish about 10pm.
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Arrestingly flamboyant, Sri Mariamman is a Hindu temple that is a wild collision of colours, shapes and deities. Built in the 1860s by Tamil immigrants, the principal temple features a 6m facade of intertwined, full-colour Hindu deities. The main shrine of Sri Mariamman contains three supremes: Jao Mae Maha Umathewi (Uma Devi; also known as Shakti, Shiva’s consort) at the centre; her son Phra Khanthakuman (Khanthakumara or Subramaniam) on the right; and her elephant-headed son Phra Phikkhanesawora (Ganesha) on the left. Along the left interior wall sit rows of Shivas, Vishnus and other Hindu deities, as well as a few Buddhas. While most of the people working in the temple hail from the Indian subcontinent, you will likely see plenty of Thai and Chinese devotees praying here as well. This is because the Hindu gods figure just as prominently in their individualistic approach to religion.
The official Thai name of the temple is Wat Phra Si Maha Umathewi, but sometimes it is shortened to its colloquial name Wat Khaek – kàak is a common expression for people of Indian descent. The literal translation is ‘guest’, an obvious euphemism for any group of people not particularly wanted as permanent residents; hence most Indian Thais don’t appreciate the term.
BANK OF ASIA (ROBOT BUILDING)
Map
cnr Th Sathon Tai & Soi Pikun; Surasak exit 4
During the crazy 1980s, when no building project was too outlandish or expensive, architect Sumet Jumsai created his now-famous ‘Robot Building’ for the Bank of Asia. The whimsical facade does indeed look a bit like a robot (or our idea of what a robot should look like, at least). Needless to say, few architectural purists were keen on it at the time, but now it seems quaint and retro – a real character on Bangkok’s often uninspired skyline. The building itself is not open to the public; it is best viewed looking south from the Skytrain between Surasak and Chong Nonsi stations.
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PUSSY GALORE
Super Pussy! Pussy Collection! The neon signs leave little doubt about the dominant industry in Patpong, the world’s most infamous strip of go-go bars and clubs running ‘exotic’ shows. There is enough skin on show in Patpong to make Hugh Hefner blush, and a trip to the upstairs clubs could mean you’ll never look at a ping-pong ball or a dart the same way again.
For years opinion on Patpong has been polarised between those people who see it as an exploitative, immoral place that is the very definition of sleaze, and others for whom a trip to Bangkok is about little more than immersing themselves in planet Patpong. But Patpong has become such a caricature of itself that in recent times a third group has emerged: the curious tourist. Whatever your opinion, what you see in Patpong or in any of Bangkok’s other high-profile ‘adult entertainment’ areas depends as much on your personal outlook on life as on the quality of your vision.
Prostitution is actually illegal in Thailand but there are as many as 2 million sex workers, the vast majority of whom – women and men – cater to Thai men. Many come from poorer regional areas, such