Bangkok (Lonely Planet) - Andrew Burke [87]
Next door are the headquarters of the prestigious Siam Society, publisher of the renowned Journal of the Siam Society and a valiant preserver of traditional Thai culture. Those with a serious interest can use the reference library, which has the answers to almost any question you could have about Thailand (outside the political sphere, since the society is sponsored by the royal family).
THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER
Map
0 2664 8448; www.tcdc.or.th; 6th fl, Emporium, Th Sukhumvit btwn Soi 22 & 24; 10.30am-9pm Tue-Sun; Phrom Phong exit 3;
Move over Scandinavian minimalism, this is the dawning of Thai style. The Thailand Creative & Design Center is a government-backed initiative intended to incubate design innovation, which is seen as Thailand’s next step in the global marketplace now that labour is no longer competitive. The centre acts as both showroom and shop for Thai design, and is a good place to buy quality (if more expensive) Thai products and souvenirs. Rotating exhibitions feature profiles of international products and retrospectives of regional handicrafts and creativity. The centre includes a permanent library of design-related books and materials and is a good place to meet young Thai designers and students; the adjoining cafe has free wi-fi and good views. The centre is on the top floor of the Emporium shopping mall but is difficult to find – follow signs to the food court, then go up to the cinema and it’s opposite the ticket booths.
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MARKET, PARK & SPA
Walking Tour
This walk takes in the teeming commerce of Bangkok’s largest market, the contrasting quiet of one of the city’s newer parks, a bit of northern Thai culture and a massage to help you recover from it all. Klong Toey market is busiest between about 5am and 10am, so if you want to be in the thick of the action start early. It’s most easily reached via the Khlong Toei Metro station and a walk.
1 Klong Toey Market
Despite being Bangkok’s biggest market, and the distribution point for countless goods going to countless other stores, Klong Toey market sees very few tourists. A photographer’s dream.
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WALK FACTS
Start Khlong Toei Metro station
End Asok Skytrain station
Distance 4km
Duration Two to four hours
Fuel stops Black Canyon Coffee and Bitter Brown
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2 Benjakiti Park
Once you’ve had enough of the market, head out and cross busy Th Phra Ram IV, then west across Th Ratchadaphisek and north past the Stock Exchange of Thailand and finally into Benjakiti Park. Head across to the far side of the lake and walk north, stopping for an ice cream or drink en route.
3 Ban Kamthieng
At the far northern end of the park, step back out onto Th Ratchadaphisek and continue north to Th Sukhumvit. Cross over, and continue north on busy Soi Asoke to Ban Kamthieng, the traditional Lanna wooden home relocated to Bangkok. Adjoining is the welcome air-con of Black Canyon Coffee (Soi 21, Th Sukhumvit; meals from 100B; 8am-8pm), which also serves cheap, tasty light lunches, or cross the street to the classier and quieter Bitter Brown (Soi 21, Th Sukhumvit; meals from 120B; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri); both have toilets.
4 Massage time
Refreshed enough that you’re no longer dripping with sweat, brave the traffic and cross Soi Asoke, then walk through the Grand Millennium Hotel driveway to Soi 23. Turning right, there are a few local restaurants, and you have a choice of massage places. Those on Soi 23 itself are cheap (less than 300B an hour) but the women wear suspiciously short skirts so asking for an ‘oil massage’ might get you more than you bargained for (foot massages are a safer bet). If you walk along to the T-junction and turn left, just beyond the next corner Mulberry Spa offers a more spa-like experience, with more professional English-speaking masseuses.
5 Soi Cowboy
Rejuvenated, return to Soi 23, turn left (north) and walk along until you come to neon-filled Soi Cowboy. Depending on the time, you’ll find