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Beyond the Sky and the Earth_ A Journey Into Bhutan - Jamie Zeppa [1]

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the Sky and the Earth is truly a work of art. Zeppa knows how to spice up what is essentially an inner journey with drama and comedy and romance. Visually beautiful ... this is a book that will keep you reading right to the end.”

—Winnipeg Free Press

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The map on pages 306—07 is based on a map of Bhutan appearing in Bhutan: Mountain Fortress of the

Gods, ed. by Christian Schicklgruber and Francoise Pommaret, © 1997.

Copyright © 1999 by Jamie Zeppa

Title page photograph by Andy Hoets

All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced, scanned, or distributed in any printed or electronic form without permission. Please do not participate in or encourage piracy of copyrighted materials in violation of the author’s rights. Purchase only authorized editions. RIVERHEAD is a registered trademark of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

PRINTING HISTORY

First Riverhead trade paperback edition: May 2000

eISBN : 978-1-101-17420-3

Zeppa, Jamie.

Beyond the sky and the earth: a journey into Bhutan / by Jamie Zeppa.

p. cm.

eISBN : 978-1-101-17420-3

1. Bhutan—Description and travel. 1. Title.

DS494.5.z-50631 CIP

954.98—dc21

http://us.penguingroup.com

for my grand father

Patrick Raymond Zeppa

and my grandmother

Florence Alice Zeppa

Acknowledgments

Many people have helped me write this book. I would like to thank Nancy Strickland, who gave me a room of my own as well as her generous and unfailing friendship; and my other WUSC-Bhutan friends, Mark LaPrairie, Grant and Dorothy Bruce, Anne Currie, Barb Rutten, Cam Kilgour, and Catherine McAdam, for their friendship in Bhutan and beyond. Many thanks to my agent, Anne McDermid, for her tireless commitment to this project over many months and many miles. I am very grateful to my excellent editors for all their work in shaping this book: Julie Grau at Riverhead in New York, Mari Evans at Macmillan U.K., and, especially, Jill Lambert, who was there from the beginning. I am also indebted to the many others who read various drafts, made invaluable suggestions, and kept me writing, especially Tshewang, Sheree Fitch, Karma S., Shirley-Dale Easley, Ruth Liddington, and Lesley Grant of Doubleday Canada. My writing companions in Thimphu, the women of WAGS, were a great source of strength, as was my mother, Judy Luzzi. Thanks also to my father, Jim Zeppa, and Minor Miracles, for providing space and time to work during the revision process. I would like to thank Sonam Wangmo for her story of the oracle in her father’s temple at Sakteng; Jigme Drukpa, who provided the information on Bhutanese music and musical instruments throughout the book; and Chris Butters, whose insights into Bhutanese architecture are incorporated on p. 166. Thank you to Susan Terrill, my dearest friend,

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