Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [105]
The three hills to the south of town are named after the Rigsum Goempo, the trinity of Chenresig, Channa Dorje and Jampelyang, and also represent the valley’s three protector deities.
The scenic road to the north passes the Talung valley and Chhundu Lhakhang, and ends at Damthang, 15km from Haa town. But it would be prudent to turn around before you reach the gates of the large Bhutanese army installation.
Sights
Haa’s Wangchulo Dzong is one of Bhutan’s newest, built in 1915 to replace a smaller structure. It is inside the Indian army compound but there’s not much to see.
The 60-strong monk body is housed not in the dzong but in the Haa Dratshang, also known as the Lhakhang Kharpo (White Chapel), at the southern entrance to town. An annual tsechu is held in the large courtyard. A ten-minute walk behind the dratshang is the grey Lhakhang Nagpo (Black Chapel).
Sleeping & Eating
Risum Resort ( 375350, fax 375405; s/d Nu 1000/1500) Good accommodation is available here in cosy, pine-clad rooms with clean hot-water bathrooms, heaters and, on the upper floors, balconies. The excellent information book in the restaurant has lots of information on trips to outlying monasteries, including Wantsa Goemba, a short walk behind the resort. The hotel is located on the east side of the road, between the two sections of town.
Hotel Lhayul ( 375251; tgytaugay@yahoo.com; s/d Nu 550/850) This is a good place for lunch, with comfy sofas and a bar. There are also eight basic rooms, with four deluxe rooms planned. It’s in the central bazaar area of town.
Return to beginning of chapter
AROUND THE HAA VALLEY
Juneydrak
About 1km north of Haa, by the Two Sisters Hotel and hospital and just before the main bridge, a 4WD track branches east to Katsho village, from where you can make a lovely three-hour return hike to Juneydrak hermitage (also known as Juneydrag). The cliffside retreat contains a footprint of Machig Labdrom (1055–1132), the female Tibetan Tantric practitioner who perfected the chöd ritual, whereby one visualises one’s own dismemberment in an act of ‘ego annihilation’.
A trail follows the stream past a mani wall to a two-legged archway chorten (known as a khonying). Cross the bridge and ascend through a charming rhododendron forest. At a red sign in Dzongkha, take the trail to the left and climb up to a chorten that marks the entry to the hermitage. A sign here asks visitors not to disturb the hermits so don’t try to enter the lhakhang.
From here a set of exposed log ladders ascend the cliff and the trail curves round the exposed bluff. Don’t attempt this if you are afraid of heights or if it’s raining. The trail curves round to Katsho Goemba, which is normally closed, but there are fine views down to Katsho village. Follow the switchbacked path back down to the village.
Chhundu Lhakhang
North of Katsho the main road crosses to the river’s south bank and passes several traditional settlements as it heads up the lovely upper Haa valley, past the village of Ingo (Yungo). The large village in the side valley to the north is Talung; Yangthang Goemba is high on the eastern ridge of this side valley and Jangkhaka village is in the valley floor, between Yangthang and Talung villages. Further up the valley is Tsenkha Goemba. You’ll need a 4WD to visit Yangthang Goemba.
Three kilometres further along the main road (11km from Haa) is the delightful Chhundu Lhakhang, one of several shrines dedicated to the valley’s protective deity. The timeless chapel is a five-minute walk down a concrete path below Gyechukha village, which is itself just past the Yakchu Zam bridge at Haley. The blue-faced Chhundu and his red-faced cousin Jowya glower in glass cabinets on either side of the main altar.
Troublesome Chhundu was banished to Haa by the Zhabdrung after