Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [111]
On the final day of the five-day Punakha Domchoe the thondrol, which features an image of the Zhabdrung, is displayed. Later a group of 136 people dressed as pazaps (warriors) perform a dance in the main courtyard, then shout and whistle as they descend the front stairs of the dzong. Next, a procession of monks led by the Je Khenpo proceeds to the river to the accompaniment of cymbals, drums and trumpets. At the river the Je Khenpo throws a handful of oranges symbolising the Rangjung Kharsapani into the river. This is both a recreation of the Zhabdrung’s trick and also an offering to the naga (lu in Dzongkha), the sub-surface spirits in the river. The singing and cheering warriors then carry their generals back into the dzong as firecrackers explode around them. Mask dances then celebrate the Zhabdrung’s construction of the dzong.
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On the left side of the road, 4.5km from Punakha, look out for the Dho Jhaga Lam Lhakhang, whose pretty gardens shelter a huge boulder split miraculously in two. It is said that the Indian guru-magician Nagi Rinchen sent lightning and hail to split the rock to liberate his mother who was trapped inside. The chapel houses a statue of the guru (to the far right), who is recognisable by the scriptures in his top knot. Rinchen meditated in a cave across the river (marked by prayer flags next to the Sona Gasa, the former palace of the third king), and so is depicted here as a long-haired drubthob (hermit-magician). To the far left is a statue of the local female protector Chabdrab, riding a snowlion.
In Yambesa, 7km from Punakha, is the huge Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, perched high on a hill on the opposite bank of the river. The 30m-tall chorten, which took eight years to build, was consecrated during a three-day ceremony in December 1999. The chorten is dedicated to the crown prince and serves to protect the country so is stuffed with every form of protector deity imaginable, including a yeti with characteristically pendulous breasts. You can ascend up to the roof for superb views of the valley. A side road leads down to a parking lot by the river, where a bridge provides access to a steep 45-minute hike uphill to the chorten. Ask your guide to point out the wonderfully fragrant tingye (flower pepper) plants that grow along the trail.
The bridge is a put-in spot for relaxing rafting and kayaking float trips down the Mo Chhu to Punakha Dzong (Click here).
Beyond the chorten the road leads up to Tashithang and then Damji, a half-day walk from Gasa (Click here). This is the jumping-off point for treks to Gasa and the hot springs below it; it’s also the ending point of the Laya–Gasa trek (Click here for details).
Activities
Punakha’s mountain-bike trails offer one of the best chances to break out the fat tyres, though you’ll have to bring your own bike as there’s nowhere to rent locally.
A 27km loop route from Kuruthang crosses the bridge there and heads up the east side of the valley along a feeder road to Samdingkha (14km), then returns along a trail to Punakha Dzong (7.5km), finally coasting back to Khurutang along the paved road.
A longer 40km loop starts from Bajo, just north of Wangdue Phodrang, and heads up the east side of the valley to Jangsabu (14km), before climbing a trail to Olodama and Tschochagsa (9.5km). From here you can detour to Lingmukha or coast down 10km to the Aumthekha junction, across the river from Chimi Lhakhang, and then pedal back to Bajo and Wangdi.
Sleeping
Many people visit Punakha as a day trip from Thimphu or visit en route to Wangdue Phodrang, where there are several more hotels (Click here). An Uma (www.uma.como.bz) resort is planned above Punakha Dzong.
Meri Puensum Resort (Map; 584195; mpuensum@druknet.net.com; s/d Nu 1100/1300, deluxe s/d Nu 1250/1450; ) This privately-run place next door to Zangto Pelri is smaller, cosier and has much better service. Rooms are in a central building and cottages that hug the steep hillside overlooking the rice terraces of the Punakha valley. The garden gazebo is a great place to have breakfast or relax