Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [120]
Click here for information about visa and other formalities upon arrival in Phuentsholing for foreigners and Indian nationals. All the banks will swap Bhutanese ngultrums for Indian rupees, and vice versa.
Bank of Bhutan (Map; Samdrup Lam; 9am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm Sat) Only the main branch changes foreign currency, including travellers cheques.
Bhutan National Bank (Map; Samdrup Lam; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)
Bhutan Photo Studio (Map; Gatoen Lam) One of several studios here for instant passport photos (Nu 20-50).
DSB Books (Map; 251898; Gechu Shopping Mall; 9am-9pm) Paperback novels, Indian newspapers and books about Bhutan.
GPY Cyber Café (Map; per hr Nu 40; 9am-9pm) Printing, photocopying and long-distance calls also possible; in the back of the Gechu Shopping Mall.
Phuentsholing General Hospital ( 254825) A new hospital is due to be completed in the north of town by 2007.
Post Office (Map; Samdrup Lam; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat to 1pm) Next to the Bank of Bhutan on a hill above the town.
Sights
The modern Zangto Pelri Lhakhang is a replica of Guru Rinpoche’s celestial paradise, though we’re guessing the original isn’t made out of concrete. There’s not much to see but the surrounding garden is pleasant and there are always lots of pilgrims spinning prayer wheels.
If you have half an hour to kill, you can visit the sleepy collection of marsh mugger and gharial crocodiles at the Crocodile Breeding Centre (Map; free; dawn-dusk), a 10-minute walk north of the bus station. The crocs are fed every other day at noon.
For an afternoon stroll, follow the prayer flag–lined Dhoti Chhu down to its confluence with the Torsa Chuu. In 1999 monsoon floods caused the river to jump its banks and submerge much of the town. An extensive embankment system now protects against a repeat performance.
The new Pungthim Dratshang is currently being built on the site of the former vegetable market to house the local rabdey (monk community).
Sleeping & Eating
The following hotels all have rooms with attached toilets. The smaller hotels have a limited number of air-con rooms and fill up quickly with Indian extended families and businessmen, so book in advance.
Hotel Druk (Map; 252426; www.drukhotels.com; Zhung Lam; s/d Nu 2000/2500, deluxe s/d Nu 2900/3200; ) This old hotel is in a secluded spot near the Bhutan gate and has excellent rooms, with hot water in the mornings and evenings. The restaurant serves decent Indian food.
Lhaki Hotel (Map; 257111; lhakihotel@druknet.bt; Pelkhil Lam; s/d Nu 1800/2300, ste Nu 2800-4500; ) The other main tourist place is this newly-built modern and marbly place, with clean and spacious rooms. There’s a good restaurant here, plus a shopping arcade and a snooker hall in the basement.
Hotel Namgay (Map; 252374; hotel_namgay@yahoo.com; Tharpai Lam; s/d Nu 1100/1300, deluxe s/d Nu 1300/1500; ste Nu 1750-2500; ) Overlooking the Zangto Pelri Lhakhang, the Namgay is a step down in quality but still pleasant, with tropical plants in the lobby, and money exchange.
Sinchula Hotel (Map; 252589; hotelsinchula@yahoo.com; Phuensum Lam; s/d Nu 450/650, deluxe Nu 550/750, AC 750/1000; ) This older local hotel has clean, tiled rooms with hot-water bathroom, a good restaurant and a rooftop terrace bar. It’s next to an old peepul tree.
Two hotels popular with Indian tourists are the Central Hotel (Map; 252172; centralhotel@druknet.bt; cnr Tharpai & Gatoen Lams; s/d Nu 450/675, ste Nu 1000; ) and the old-fashioned Kuenga Hotel (Map; 252293; 5-53 Gatoen Lam; s/d Nu 200/360, deluxe s/d Nu 300/400). Only a few rooms at the Kuenga have hot water but the lobby restaurant is popular with locals.
Another local place is the noisy Hotel Peljorling (Map; 252833; Zhung Lam; s/d Nu 225/300, deluxe s/d 400/600), with a good restaurant and bar but basic rooms.
The main hotels all have good restaurants, with Indian and Bhutanese dishes the best bet. The Peljorling menu boasts sizzlers and a ‘Macdonalds Burger’.
Shopping
Phuentsholing has the cheapest consumer goods in Bhutan and many Bhutanese come here especially