Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [123]
Bumthang retained its political importance during the rule of the first and second kings, both of whom had their principal residence at Wangdichholing Palace in Jakar. Several impressive royal residences and country estates remain in the region, including at Kuenga Rabten, Eundu Chholing and Urgyen Chholing.
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TRONGSA DZONGKHAG
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WANGDUE PHODRANG TO TRONGSA (129KM)
It takes about four hours to drive between the windswept town of Wangdi (Wangdue Phodrang’s colloquial name) in western Bhutan, and Trongsa. The route crosses the Black Mountains over the Pele La (3420m) before entering the broad, heavily cultivated Mangde Chhu valley. Click here for details of the drive from Wangdi to the Pele La.
Pele La to Chendebji
27km / 1 hour
From Pele La the road drops through hillsides of a strange dwarf bamboo called cham. This bamboo never gets large enough to harvest for any useful purpose, but when it is small it is a favourite food of yaks and horses. The area near Pele La is probably the best place in Bhutan to see yaks from the road. Be alert, though, as these great shaggy beasts are skittish and likely to run off into the forest when your vehicle approaches.
The road drops into the evergreen forests of the Longte valley, passing Kgebji village and the Tashi Choeling Restaurant below the high village of Longte. The groups of small white numbered houses along the road here are quarters for road-maintenance crews.
Lower down into the valley the vegetation changes to broadleaf species and bamboo. The road passes opposite Rukubji village with its big school and goemba at the end of a huge alluvial fan believed to be the body of a giant snake. The houses in this village are clustered closely together, an unusual layout for Bhutan. Surrounding the village are extensive fields of mustard, potatoes, barley and wheat.
About 16km from the pass keep an eye open on the left for the roadside rock inscription and mural that was left here in 2002 for the filming of the Bhutanese movie Travellers and Magicians. After the Buddhist blessing come the words ‘Scene 112, take 101’!
The road enters a side valley and drops to Sephu (2610m), next to the bridge that spans the Nikka Chhu. This is the end point of the 25-day Snowman trek that starts from Paro and passes through the remote Lunana district (Click here). You could stop briefly to examine the bamboo mats and baskets for sale here, though most of the products are functional items. The larger baskets, called zhim, are tied to horses’ pack saddles to transport goods. Tsering’s Restaurant cum Bar beside the bridge offers momos (dumplings), tea and a clean toilet.
The road follows the Nikka Chhu to two chortens that mark the river’s confluence with the Nyala Chhu. It is then a gentle, winding descent through rhododendrons, blue pines, spruces, oaks and dwarf bamboo to the village of Chendebji, recognisable by the yellow roof of its lhakhang (chapel), on the far bank. This was a night halt for mule caravans travelling from Trongsa during the reign of the second king.
Two kilometres beyond Chendebji village is Chendebji Chorten, at a lovely spot by a river confluence. The large white chorten is patterned after Swayambhunath in Kathmandu and was built in the 19th century by Lama Shida, from Tibet, to cover the remains of an evil spirit that was killed here. The proper name of this structure is Chorten Charo Kasho; it is the westernmost monument in a ‘chorten path’ that was the route of early Buddhist missionaries. (The easternmost monument in this path is Chorten Kora in Trashi Yangtse.) The nearby Bhutanese-style chorten was constructed in 1982. Bring some insect repellent to fight off the persistent flies.
Just 500m past the chorten is the Hotel Chandbjee/Urgyen Dorji Tabdea Restaurant ( 490052; lunch buffet Nu 285), a popular lunch spot and gift shop run by the owners of the Dochu La Hotel.
Chendebji to Trongsa
41km / 1¼ hours
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