Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [125]
The dzong’s strategic location gave it great power over this part of the country. The only trail between eastern and western Bhutan still leads straight through Trongsa and used to run directly through the dzong itself. This gave the Trongsa penlop enviable control over east–west trade and the tax revenue to be derived from it. Today visitors enter through the main eastern gate but there are plans to renovate and revive the old footpath and cantilever bridge over the Mangde Chhu, allowing tourists to hike up to Trongsa (two hours) from the current viewing area by the chorten (Click here) and enter the dzong via the eastern gate, in traditional fashion.
Trongsa Dzong is the ancestral home of Bhutan’s royal family. The first two hereditary kings ruled from this dzong, and tradition still dictates that the crown prince serve as Trongsa penlop before acceding to the throne. When the current crown prince became penlop in 2004 the yellow roof was repainted red. The Trongsa rabdey (monastic body) migrates between winter (Trongsa) and summer (Bumthang) residences, just as the main dratshang (monk body) does between Thimphu and Punakha (Click here).
There are 23 separate lhakhangs in the dzong, though what you get to see depends on which keys are available. The dzong was severely damaged in the 1897 earthquake and repairs were carried out by the penlop of Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal, father of Bhutan’s first king. Most of the existing fine decoration was designed during the rule of the first king, Ugyen Wangchuck. The dzong was recently renovated by the Austrian team that is currently working on the nearby Ta Dzong.
The atmospheric northern assembly hall is still preserved as it was during his reign. There is a painting of the court as it was then, and other paintings of the guardians of the four directions and the deity Phurba in the main hall. There is also a 17th-century mural depicting Swayambhunath in Nepal and another with a pictorial map of Lhasa. The main chapel to the south, the Chorten Lhakhang, houses the funerary chorten of the founder Ngagi Wangchuck.
The five-day Trongsa tsechu is held in the northern courtyard in December or January.
TA DZONG
This watchtower on the hill above the dzong has been converted into a state-of-the-art museum by the same Austrian-financed team that renovated the excellent Patan Museum in Nepal. The displays, which should open in mid-2008, will focus on Buddhist art and the history of the monarchy. Views from the fifth-floor roof will be unrivalled. A café is planned.
A chapel inside the tower is dedicated to the 19th-century penlop of Trongsa, Jigme Namgyal. Two British soldiers are said to have been kept in the dungeon here for several months during the Duar War.
Sleeping & Eating
Amankora ((www.amanresorts.com; s/d full board US$925/1000)) plan to open a hotel above the dzong by 2008.
Yangkhil Resort (Map; 521417; yangkhilresort@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 1600/1800, deluxe s/d Nu 1900/2300; )) This resort, 1.5km west of town, should be your first choice, with rooms lined on a terrace to look back toward the dzong. Rooms are spacious and comfortable with a nice balcony and extremely comfortable beds. The pleasant grounds and sitting areas make it a great place to relax, so arrange your itinerary to ensure an early arrival or late departure. Request one of the six view rooms in advance, as some rooms have only partial views.
Puenzhi Guest House (Map; 521197; puenzhi@druknet.bt; s/d Nu 800/1000, deluxe r Nu 1500) A 4km drive above the town leads to this place, run by the former governor of Trongsa. The simple but cosy new rooms at the top are the best and come with a private balcony; next best are the rooms below the restaurant. Literally bottom of the heap are the cottages below. The restaurant balcony offers great aerial