Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [133]
The central figure in the ancient inner sanctum is Jampa, the Buddha of the Future, with his feet on an elephant. This is the oldest part of the oldest chapel in Bhutan. The statue is protected by an iron chain mail that was made by Pema Lingpa. Look up into the alcove above the entry to see a statue of Guru Rinpoche. He sat in this alcove and meditated, leaving behind a footprint. It is said that under the lhakhang there is a lake in which the Guru hid several terma.
The inner kora (circumambulation) path around the chapel is lined with ancient-looking murals. There are more lovely murals in the atrium. On the right side of the wooden wall divider is an image of Kim-lha, the goddess of the home.
On the northern side of the courtyard is the Kalachakra Temple (Dus-Kyi-khorlo), added by Ugyen Wangchuck when he was penlop. Chimi Dorji, the administrator of Jakar Dzong, added the Guru Lhakhang, on the south side of the dochey (dzong’s inner courtyard), which features Guru Rinpoche, Tsepame and Chenresig. Above the entryway is the Sangay Lhakhang.
Behind the main temple are two large stone chortens; one is in memory of the second king’s younger brother, Gongsar Dorji. Nearby is a chorten in memory of Lama Pentsen Khenpo, spiritual adviser to the first and second Bhutanese kings. The four corners of the complex are anchored by four more chortens, coloured yellow, red, white and blue.
The pile of carved mani stones in the parking lot in front of the goemba is called a thos and represents the guardians of the four directions.
Each October one of the most spectacular festivals in Bhutan, the Jampa Lhakhang Drup, is staged here. The festival ground and VIP viewing platform is to the left (south) of the chapel. On one evening, after the lama dances, the monastery is lit by a bonfire for a mewang (fire blessing), when pilgrims jump through a burning archway. Another late-night rite is the tercham (treasure dance), also referred to as the ‘naked dance’, normally performed at midnight. Both dances serve as fertility rites.
Tourists need a Cultural Affairs permit to visit the lhakhang, which your travel agency will arrange for you.
CHAKHAR LHAKHANG
Beside the main road, a short distance beyond Jampa Lhakhang, is Chakhar (Iron Castle) Lhakhang. Although it is easy to mistake it for a house, this is an interesting temple and worth a short visit. It is the site of the palace of the Indian king Sendha Gyab, better known as the Sindhu Raja (see below), who first invited Guru Rinpoche to Bumthang. The original palace was made of iron, hence the name Chakhar; it was said to have been nine storeys high, holding within it all the treasures of the world.
The current building was built in the 14th century by the saint Dorji Lingpa and its correct name is Dechen Phodrang. The main statue is of Guru Rinpoche, and there are dozens of masks and black hats that are used during the Jampey Lhakhang Drup festival.
Opening hours are a bit hit and miss, and you may have to pay several visits to find the caretaker in.
KURJEY LHAKHANG
This large, active and important temple complex is named after the body (kur) print (jey) of Guru Rinpoche, which is preserved in a cave inside the oldest of the three buildings that make up the temple complex. It is at the end of the paved road, 2.5km from Chakhar Lhakhang.
As you enter the complex, there are three large lhakhangs against a hillside on the right. The first temple, the Guru Lhakhang, is the oldest and was built in 1652 by Mingyur Tenpa (Click here) when he was penlop of Trongsa. Tucked just below the eaves is a figure of a snowlion with a garuda above it, which represents the famous struggle between Guru Rinpoche (appearing as the garuda) and the local demon, Shelging Kharpo (as the snowlion).
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THE STORY OF KURJEY LHAKHANG
In 746 the saint Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) made his first visit to Bhutan. At this time, the Indian Sendha Gyab had established