Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [135]
The elaborately decorated Zangto Pelri Lhakhang is under construction a short distance south of the Kurjey Lhakhang compound and features a 3D depiction of the paradise of Guru Rinpoche.
A five-minute walk up the hillside near the entrance is the Khurjey Drupchhu, a sacred spring where monks come to wash their socks.
The popular Kurjey tsechu is held in June and includes a masked dance that dramatises Guru Rinpoche’s defeat of Shelging Kharpo. A large thangka, called Guru Tshengye Thondrol, depicting the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, is unfurled in the early morning before the dances, which are performed by the monks from Trongsa.
DEOTHANG GOEMBA
This little-visited but charming private monastery, just north of Kurjey Goemba, was founded in 1949 by Dasho Phuntsok Wangdi. The surprisingly large main hall has a large image of Guru Rinpoche, with 12 more interesting metal statues to the side. A small, dark-skinned image of Thangtong Gyalpo stands to the left. The goemba has a basic four-roomed guesthouse.
THANGBI GOEMBA
The yellow-roofed Thangbi (or Thankabi) Goemba was founded in 1470 by Shamar Rinpoche and, after a dispute, was taken over by Pema Lingpa. The main chapel of the Dusum Sangay (Past, Present and Future Buddhas) is entered under another of Pema Lingpa’s famous chainmails. Just over 20 gomchen (lay or married monks) live here, celebrating a drup (festival) in October.
The goemba is a 3.5km drive north of Kurjey Lhakhang on an unpaved road, branching across the river at Toktu Zampa. It’s worth a visit if you are headed to Ngang Lhakhang but isn’t really worth a special visit in its own right. This is also the starting point for the Bumthang Cultural trek (Click here).
NGANG LHAKHANG
Several hours’ walk up the Chokhor Chhu from Thangbi Goemba is the small region known as Ngang-yul (Swan Land). The site was visited by Guru Rinpoche, but the present Ngang Lhakhang (Swan Temple) temple was built in the 15th century by Lama Namkha Samdrup, a contemporary of Pema Lingpa.
Despite the rustic and decrepit exterior, the interior contains some lovely statues and paintings. Look also for the saddles by the entrance. The primary statue is of Guru Rinpoche, flanked by his two consorts, Yeshe Tsogyal from Tibet and Mandarava from India. There is a mural of the Zhabdrung on the wall opposite the altar and an image of Guru Rinpoche on a lotus surrounded by swans.
The upper chapel is a goenkhang, with statues of Tsepame, Chenresig, Vijaya and Drolma. The statue of Guru Rinpoche to the bottom right was fashioned by Pema Lingpa. Protector deities lurk in the shadows. Hanging from the rafters are masks used in the three-day Ngang Shey, a festival held here in the 10th month in honour of the temple’s founder.
It’s possible to drive here with a 4WD but it’s a much nicer walk along the true left bank of the river. You could walk one way and arranged to be picked up at nearby Damphey.
For a map of the region Click here.
Eastern Side of the Valley
The best way to visit the eastern side of the Chokhor valley is to walk a couple of hundred metres north from Kurjey Lhakhang then follow a path east to cross a footbridge, then uphill to a trail on the opposite side. Downstream of the bridge you can see a natural formation named Do Zam, said to be the remains of a stone bridge that was built by a goddess who was trying to meet Guru Rinpoche, but the bridge was destroyed by a demon.
From here you can follow the east-bank trail south for 30 minutes to Tamshing Goemba. A more interesting 45-minute detour is to take a left after the bridge for ten minutes to an impressive rock painting of Guru Rinpoche in the form of Dorje Drolo, astride a tiger. From here, head uphill to the Dorji Bi Lhakhang with its large white