Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [141]
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SOUTHERN DZONGKHAGS
Two dzongkhags lie on the southern border of central Bhutan. For a few years now tourists have not been permitted to travel in these regions because of the threat posed by Assamese separatist groups, but moves are afoot to reopen the region to tourism. When that happens, the Royal Manas National park in particular will offer a unique nature experience in an area of extreme biodiversity.
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ZHEMGANG DZONGKHAG
Zhemgang, along with neighbouring Mongar, was once a collection of tiny principalities, collectively known as Khyeng, absorbed into Bhutan in the 17th century. Panbang, near the Indian border, is known for its round baskets called bangchung.
A two-day walk from Zhemgang town leads to Nabji, where a stone pillar commemorates the settlement of the dispute between the Sindhu Raja and Naochhe that was mediated by Guru Rinpoche. (boxed text).
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SARPANG DZONGKHAG
Sarpang is on the southern border and a large part of the district is protected within the Royal Manas National Park. Kalikhola in the far west is a border town that has no road connection with the rest of Bhutan; all travel here involves passing through Indian territory. There is talk of building an airport in Gelephu.
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THE NABJI TRAIL
In late 2006 the Department of Tourism launched a community tourism program in Nabji in an attempt to bring tourist income directly to remote local communities, through the employment of local guides, community-owned camping grounds and local cultural activities. The proposed six-day winter trek leads through the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park and passes through several Monpa villages. It’s only feasible from November to March due to the low elevations. The region only opened in 2006 and only one group is allowed on the trail at a time so you can be sure you won’t bump into anyone else here. For more details, see www.abto.org.bt.
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Gelephu
06
The large border town of Gelephu is the gateway to the south and to the Manas area. There’s a good tsachhu (hot spring) in nearby Shershong, 15km from town and you could also check out the town’s whisky distillery. A bomb exploded in the Sunday vegetable market here in September 2004, killing two and injuring 27.
There are a few hotels, including the Hotel Chorten ( 251252), (Hotel Dechen ( 251293)) and, best of all, Dragon Guest House ( 251019; Nu 800).
Royal Manas National Park
There are simple lodges at Kanamakra, Rabang and Panbang, and, if the area is reopened, a tented camp can be established at Pantang. A 25km road leads from Gelephu to Kanamakra at the southwestern corner of the park. There is also a road from Tingtibi on the Trongsa–Gelephu road. This 40km road passes along the northern boundary of the park from Gomphu to Panbang village.
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Eastern Bhutan
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MONGAR DZONGKHAG
JAKAR TO MONGAR (193KM)
MONGAR
LHUENTSE DZONGKHAG
MONGAR TO LHUENTSE (76KM)
LHUENTSE
AROUND LHUENTSE
TRASHIGANG DZONGKHAG
MONGAR TO TRASHIGANG (92KM)
TRASHIGANG
FAR EASTERN BHUTAN
TRASHI YANGTSE DZONGKHAG
TRASHIGANG TO TRASHI YANGTSE (53KM)
TRASHI YANGTSE
AROUND TRASHI YANGTSE
SAMDRUP JONGKHAR DZONGKHAG
TRASHIGANG TO SAMDRUP JONGKHAR (180KM)
SAMDRUP JONGKHAR
PEMAGATSHEL DZONGKHAG
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Even though it is the most densely populated region, eastern Bhutan remains the kingdom’s hinterland. Roads reach the major towns, but most settlements are hidden in the steep hillsides of remote and isolated valleys, some of which are home to minority ethnic groups comprising less than 1000 people.
The dominant language here is Sharchop (language of the east), although there are many local languages and dialects. Sharchop is different enough from Dzongkha