Bhutan - Lindsay Brown [146]
A short distance on the valley narrows and the road begins climbing towards the town. As the road passes the hospital there is an excellent view of the dzong perched dramatically atop a bluff. The road to Dongkhar branches off by the hospital.
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LHUENTSE
04 / elev 1440m
There is little to see in Lhuentse and there’s no actual village here, but the dzong is one of the most picturesque in Bhutan. The series of concrete terraces you see as you enter the town, just above the current collection of wooden shops and bars, is the site for yet another of Bhutan’s new towns. The pillared pavilion nearby is a cremation ground.
The road terminates in front of the dzong. Adjoining the parking lot are quarters for government officials working in Lhuentse who have been posted to this remote area where housing is scarce.
It’s worth driving up to the Royal Guest House for views of the dzong and the snow peaks at the head of the Kuri Chhu valley. The peak at the head of the valley to the northwest of the guesthouse is Sheri Nyung.
As you leave Lhuentse for Mongar, look out for the ancient ruined bridge down in the valley below, just before the bend in the river.
Sights
LHUENTSE DZONG
Lhuentse Rinchentse Phodrang Dzong, as it is correctly known, sits high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Kuri Chhu valley, with near-vertical drops on all sides.
Although Pema Lingpa’s son Kuenga Wangpo established a small goemba on this site early in the 16th century, the dzong itself was built by the Trongsa penlop Mingyur Tenpa in 1654. It has been renovated several times and numerous lhakhangs have been added. A three-day tsechu fills the dzong to capacity in December/January.
Visitors can visit seven lhakhangs, assuming you can find someone with the keys. The 100 or so resident monks see few tourists and are very friendly, which perhaps explains why visitors here have more freedom to explore than they do in any other dzong in Bhutan.
Sleeping & Eating
Royal Guest House ( 545102; bed Nu 120-200) Lhuentse’s only hotel is this government guesthouse, on a hill 100m above the town. It’s possible to get a booking here but it’s a hassle (the local dzongkhag administration prefers you have permission from the Home Ministry in Thimphu) and you could get bumped by visiting officials.
It’s best to arrive in Lhuentse with a packed lunch, otherwise you can get Bhutanese dishes and perhaps momos (dumplings) at the basic Shangrila Hotel ( 545123) or nearby and slightly nicer Karma Hotel.
Transport
Buses run three times a week to Thimphu, overnighting in Bumthang.
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AROUND LHUENTSE
Khoma
If you are interested in weaving (and even if you’re not) it’s worth making the hike up to this traditional weaving village. The village produces some of Bhutan’s most sought-after and expensive kushutara weavings and almost all of the 30 houses in the village have traditional back-strap looms set up in their porches. The weavings are so elaborate that they resemble embroidery and are generally used as kiras (women’s traditional dress), though bags and other pieces are produced. The village’s comparative wealth has translated into Sony TVs and Hoyt bows, and mule caravans frequently shuttle consumer goodies up to the well-stocked shops. The Zangto Pelri Lhakhang sits on a spur overlooking the river junction.
It’s an easy 90-minute hike up to the village, passing the Drak Kharpo (White Hermitage Cave) of Guru Rinpoche, visible high on the far cliffs.
A few Bhutanese travel companies offer three-day tours of surrounding weaving villages, including Gonpokarpo, Chenling, Minje and Nyilamdun (Ngangladung)
Dungkhar
An unpaved road runs from Lhuentse for 39km to the small village of Dungkhar, named because the ridge upon which it sits is shaped like a conch (dungkhar). Pema Lingpa’s son Kuenga Wangpo settled